
Reasons why the brake makes noise: 1. Using low-quality or overly hard brake pads; 2. Presence of sand or foreign objects between the brake pads and brake disc; 3. Brake pad warning—if the wear level of the brake pads reaches the warning line, it will emit a squeaking alarm sound, indicating the need for immediate replacement. Brake noise is a significant issue and must not be ignored. Like tires, brakes are the first line of defense for the driver's safety, so negligence is not an option. Solutions for brake noise: 1. Use genuine, quality-certified brake pads and regularly inspect the brake system; 2. Severe wear on the brake disc—wear on the brake disc can form deep grooves around the disc, causing noise when the brake pads rub against the edges of these grooves. If the grooves are not too deep, the issue can be resolved by grinding the edges of the brake pads to avoid friction with the groove edges. If the grooves are already very deep, it is recommended to replace the brake disc.

This is quite common, and I've talked to many experienced drivers about it. Most of the time, squeaky brakes mean the brake pads are worn out, and the little metal tabs inside are rubbing against the brake rotors, making that clicking noise as a warning. It could also be a small stone stuck in the brake rotor, which usually falls out after driving for a while. Once after rain, my car's brakes squealed, and the mechanic said it was just a thin layer of rust on the rotors—a few hard stops cleared it right up. But if the noise is constant and sounds like a whistle, it's likely the brake pads are too hard or there's a foreign object stuck in them, and you should get it checked immediately. Another less common reason is a bent brake shield rubbing against the rotor, which just needs a quick adjustment.

I specifically asked the technician during my last car maintenance. Newly replaced brake pads need to wear in for a few hundred kilometers, and squeaking during the break-in period is normal. For older cars, the brake discs might have worn grooves, causing poor contact with the pads, creating a sound like nails on a chalkboard. If the discs or pads are contaminated with oil or brake dust buildup, they can also make noise—use an air gun to clean them. Don’t ignore clunking sounds, as they might indicate loose brake calipers. Squeaking in sub-zero winter temperatures is common and usually goes away once the car warms up. You can check the remaining pad thickness by removing the wheel cover—if it’s thinner than a coin, replace them immediately.

More accurate when described by scenarios. A sharp screeching sound when just starting to reverse is mostly due to slow brake pad retraction, a sign of metal fatigue. A dull thud from the chassis during emergency braking calls for checking if the brake hose is leaking air. Last time, after driving on mountain roads, my brakes kept making a clicking sound—turned out the wheel hub bolts were almost loose! If the noise only happens during turns, it might be the guide pins lacking lubrication. Ceramic brake pads, favored by older German cars, are particularly picky about discs—slight unevenness and they start singing high notes. Modified brake calipers are more prone to unusual noises, since they're not originally matched. Regularly cleaning out small stones from the wheel hubs is quite effective.

Safety is no small matter. A car enthusiast experienced steering wheel shaking and squealing when braking, and it turned out to be warped brake discs—definitely needs replacement. If the brake pedal feels spongy with a bubbling sound when pressed hard, it's absolutely air in the brake fluid, risking a loss of braking any moment. Front wheel noise is more dangerous than rear wheel noise; the latter might just be a handbrake cable issue. The most terrifying is the sound of metal tearing, which could mean a seized caliper. Don’t believe the nonsense that louder brakes mean more stopping power. My rule of thumb: if the braking sound differs from last week’s, get it checked ASAP—no exceptions.


