Why does a new battery show only three bars after being fully charged?

[MacCalvin]

There are several reasons why a new battery shows only three bars after being fully charged: Battery self-discharge Some owners do not ride their electric vehicles immediately after fully charging them, but leave them parked for several days. However, electric vehicle batteries naturally self-discharge, so the longer they are left unused, the more power is lost, and the faster the battery voltage drops. Therefore, when riders start using the vehicle again, they may notice a sudden drop in power when accelerating. When the electric vehicle is used infrequently, it is essential to fully charge the battery and then recharge it every 10 days to prevent "battery drain" due to prolonged inactivity. Failure to charge the battery promptly Waiting until the battery is almost depleted before charging it can easily lead to the battery frequently being in a "hungry" state. If the battery is not fully charged, it will naturally lose power quickly when accelerating. It is recommended to charge the electric vehicle battery after using about 70% of its power, as this helps extend the battery's lifespan.

[LaCamilla]

I was also puzzled when I first encountered this issue—why does the new battery drain so quickly? Later, I figured out that the problem might lie in the charging process. Using a regular charger can easily result in a 'false charge,' where the battery appears full but actually lacks sufficient power. Additionally, check the battery's manufacturing date; even new batteries that have been in storage for over six months can naturally discharge. If the screws weren't tightened properly during installation, the high current during startup passing through a poor connection can cause the voltage to drop by three bars instantly. It's recommended to use a multimeter to measure the static voltage—a fully charged battery should read around 12.7 volts. If the battery still drains quickly, it's likely due to exaggerated capacity claims, and you should promptly request a replacement from the seller.

[Florence]

I've encountered this situation twice. The first time was due to oxidized battery terminals, where a frost-like oxide layer blocked the current, causing voltage drop right after starting. The second instance was more subtle - an aftermarket dashcam was wired to a constant power source, draining the battery 24/7. Focus on three key checks: First, clean and tighten the terminals. Second, measure the dark current after turning off the engine - anything above 50mA indicates a parasitic drain. Finally, perform a capacity test using a professional charge/discharge machine. If a new battery's capacity is below 70% of its rated value, demand a replacement immediately. Don't fall for repair shops pushing alternator replacements - nine times out of ten, that's not the issue.

[DeCole]

Three main factors cause battery charge drop: First, it's not fully charged. Fast charging can cause electrolyte stratification, with the top fully charged and the bottom empty. Switching to an 8-hour slow charge can solve this. Second, thermal runaway occurs when charging temperatures exceed 45°C in summer, damaging the plates. Third, excessive static power consumption, such as a faulty door module repeatedly waking the system. A simple self-test method: Note the charge level before locking the car at night and check the drop the next morning. A drop of more than two bars indicates a definite power leak. Remember, lead-acid batteries are most vulnerable to deep discharge, so address the issue promptly to avoid total failure.