Why can't the range extender accelerate?

[AmaraMarie]

Possible causes include clogged fuel lines or malfunctioning throttle stepper motor. Here are relevant details: Range Extender: The range extender typically adjusts power generation according to the electric motor's demands. It generates relatively less power on level roads, but increases output during acceleration or uphill driving to meet the energy requirements of electric tricycles when climbing slopes. Function: Since low-speed electric tricycles have limited range that cannot fully satisfy daily commuting needs, installing a range extender can increase their travel distance and operational range. This modification enables round-trip commutes without worrying about power depletion midway through journeys.

[VanGabriella]

Last time I encountered this situation, I found it was an issue with the range extender's fuel pump. The pump couldn't supply enough fuel, and there was no response even when I floored the accelerator. Another common cause is a clogged fuel line, like when the gasoline filter hasn't been replaced for too long, and debris blocks the pipeline, preventing fuel from flowing and naturally causing acceleration issues. Also, check the spark plugs and ignition coils; if ignition is abnormal, the engine won't perform well. A dirty air filter is also problematic—insufficient air intake can affect combustion efficiency. The most troublesome issue is when the ECU program has a bug. I once experienced the system misjudging and entering protection mode, directly limiting fuel and speed. It's recommended to first inspect the fuel and electrical systems yourself. If that doesn't help, quickly connect to an OBD scanner to read the fault codes—safety first.

[LaylaDella]

This issue depends on the specific operating conditions. During cold starts, failure to accelerate may be caused by a faulty temperature sensor, leading the ECU to mistakenly limit torque based on incorrect coolant temperature readings. If the vehicle lacks power when warm, it's often due to insufficient fuel pressure—focus on checking the high-pressure fuel pump and pressure valve. If accompanied by engine shaking, it's likely an ignition system failure; replacing a coil or spark plug usually solves it. There's also a small chance it's a faulty throttle pedal sensor sending only 30% signal when fully depressed. I once repaired a car with carbon buildup sticking the throttle—soaking it in decarbonizer for half an hour restored responsiveness. Always pay attention to fuel quality; low-grade fuel with impurities easily clogs injectors.

[OKyle]

When the throttle fails to respond, start with the simplest checks. Last time my car had this issue, opening the hood revealed the intake hose was chewed through by rats, causing air leaks and abnormal intake pressure. It's also crucial to check if the carbon canister purge valve is stuck open, as fuel vapor backflow can affect the air-fuel mixture ratio. Additionally, pay attention to the brake light switch linkage—a faulty switch can trigger cruise control protection and lock the throttle. If the crankcase ventilation valve is stuck open, it dilutes the mixture, often accompanied by white smoke from the exhaust. Those with mechanical skills can measure fuel pressure, which should maintain around 3.5 bar. For vehicles converted to run on LPG/CNG, special attention should be paid to the gas rail pressure sensor.