
Haval H6 can't shift gears after replacing the clutch three-piece set, you can check if the clutch plate is installed backwards. Introduction to Haval H6: The Haval H6 is the flagship model of the Haval brand. On August 25, 2011, the Haval H6, positioned as an urban intelligent SUV, was grandly launched at the Great Wall Motors Tianjin new factory. It offers Mitsubishi 2.0L gasoline-powered models and Green Power 2.0T diesel models, divided into three versions: Urban, Elite, and Premium. Introduction to Clutch: The clutch is a common component in mechanical transmission, which can separate or engage the transmission system at any time. During car driving, the driver can step on or release the clutch pedal as needed to temporarily separate and gradually engage the engine and gearbox, so as to cut off or transmit the power input from the engine to the transmission.

I've dealt with a similar situation before. When a Haval H6 couldn't shift gears after replacing the clutch three-piece set, it was most likely caused by the pressure plate not being properly aligned during installation. The new pressure plate must be installed completely parallel to the flywheel - any deviation exceeding 0.5mm will result in incomplete disengagement. There's also the issue of the release bearing getting stuck on the guide sleeve - if the repair shop forcefully hammered it in, it could easily deform and jam. Remember to check the oil pipe joint of the clutch master cylinder. In one case I encountered, the interface wasn't tightened properly and leaked oil, resulting in insufficient oil pressure that prevented gear engagement. The transmission side also needs inspection - if the shift fork shaft isn't aligned with the positioning hole during reassembly, the entire shifting mechanism will fail. If these details aren't handled properly, the whole job is done in vain.

This is a common issue, don't rush to dismantle the transmission. I've encountered several cases where it was due to improperly adjusted clutch cables. The Haval H6 manual transmission comes in both hydraulic and mechanical versions. For the mechanical type, if the cable's free play is too large, the clutch plates won't separate even when the pedal is fully depressed. You can test it yourself: start the engine in neutral, depress the clutch fully, wait ten seconds, then shift. If it clunks into gear, it indicates incomplete disengagement - have a mechanic readjust the cable tension. For hydraulic systems, it's likely air entered during clutch kit replacement, causing insufficient pressure due to bubbles in the fluid. You'll need to bleed the system, which requires special tools - a rework job. Another possibility is unlubricated release fork ball studs causing stiffness from dry friction.

Last year my car had the same issue, and the cause was the clutch disc. Some repair shops use off-brand clutch kits where the friction disc is 2mm thicker than the OEM part, leading to problems. The new disc gets pressed too tightly, leaving insufficient separation gap for the pressure plate when the clutch is depressed, preventing the power from being fully disengaged and making gear shifting impossible. Another pitfall is not addressing scratches on the flywheel surface—after installing a new disc, localized slipping occurs, causing overheating and deformation. It's recommended to measure the pressure plate spring height; the standard is 43±0.3mm—if it exceeds this, replacement is necessary. Also, check the transmission fluid, as low-quality oil can make the synchronizer sticky. A temporary fix is double-clutching: first disengage the gear, then depress the clutch again before re-engaging, which can alleviate but not fully resolve the issue.


