
The reason is that the handbrake is stuck at the top by the rack. You need to press the handbrake switch, pull it up slightly with force, and then release it downward. Here are some precautions for using the car handbrake: 1. Do not pull the handbrake too high: When using the handbrake, pull it to about 70% of its height. The braking effect is the same whether it is fully pulled or at 70%. Moreover, pulling the handbrake to its limit for a long time will reduce the recovery ability of the handbrake cable and shorten its lifespan. 2. Pull the handbrake gently: When pulling the handbrake, do it slowly. Avoid yanking it forcefully, as this can easily cause damage. 3. Do not use the handbrake as a substitute for the foot brake: At high speeds, using the handbrake instead of the foot brake can cause the wheels to lock, leading to skidding, and the handbrake cable might even snap.

As a seasoned driver who's been driving old cars for years, I've encountered this issue of the handbrake not releasing after being pulled tight a few times. It's usually because the brake drum or disc gets rusted from pulling too hard when parking, or the brake cable gets stuck at a rusty spot, especially in humid or salty coastal areas where metal corrosion tends to cause sticking. Another common cause is freezing in cold weather, where ice forms overnight and locks the contact points. My suggested solution is not to force the brake release, as it might break components. Instead, try gently rocking the car back and forth to relieve the brake pressure, or pour warm water on the brake area to melt the ice. For prevention, avoid pulling the handbrake all the way every time—just pull it enough to secure the car. Also, have the handbrake system regularly maintained at a garage to prevent corrosion buildup from causing bigger problems.

As a car owner who enjoys DIY repairs, I believe handbrake seizure often stems from two main causes: Firstly, improper rear brake adjustment causing excessive tightness or linkage mechanism jamming, possibly due to incorrect tension adjustment during your last maintenance or prolonged inactivity leading to metal adhesion. Secondly, environmental factors like dust and mud clogging the guide rails, or moisture during rainy seasons causing corrosion that hinders release. The solution is simple - don't abruptly force it loose. First check for debris near the bumper, try gently tapping or applying lubricant spray. If in a garage, using a heat gun can help thaw rust spots. Remember, forcing it may deform the brake system, leading to costlier repairs. Annual maintenance checks for brake component wear are recommended, along with keeping them clean to prevent accidents.

I once encountered a situation where the handbrake couldn't be pulled up or released, indicating potential safety hazards. Common causes include the brake cable overheating and sticking to the rear wheel mechanism, such as prolonged parking on steep slopes causing excessive pressure, or winter freezing locking it in place. The danger lies in the risk of rear brake overheating, smoking, or even catching fire, so immediate action is required. First, try shifting to neutral and gently rocking the car back and forth to loosen the stuck point. If this fails, turn off the engine and call for a tow truck. Avoid driving to prevent damage to tires or the chassis. Preventive measures include using rocks to chock the wheels instead of the handbrake when parking or choosing flat ground to turn off the engine and shift into gear. Experiencing this issue signals system aging, so promptly seek a professional mechanic for a comprehensive inspection.


