···
Log in / Register

Which part of the blue zone in car air conditioning is the coldest?

4 Answers
StAdeline
07/29/25 11:04am
The darker the blue, the lower the air conditioning temperature. Precautions for using car air conditioning include: 1. Turn off A/C during startup and rapid acceleration: Since the air conditioning (non-independent type) consumes part of the engine's power when turned on, it is best to turn off the A/C during vehicle startup and rapid acceleration, and then turn it on after the vehicle starts moving. This prevents insufficient engine power during acceleration and startup while also saving fuel. 2. Control the direction of the air vents: Based on the principle that cold air sinks and hot air rises, when controlling the air vents, drivers can follow the guideline of pointing the vents upward when cooling and downward when heating. 3. Do not turn on the air conditioning immediately after exposure to the sun: After a car has been exposed to the sun, the interior temperature is usually very high. In such cases, drivers should not immediately start the air conditioning. It is best to first open the windows for ventilation and wait for the hot air to dissipate before turning on the air conditioning.
Was this review help?
20
3
Share
DelilahRose
08/13/25 5:16pm
I've noticed many friends are unclear about setting the air conditioning temperature while driving, especially regarding the blue zone representing the cooling side. You ask where it's coldest? Simply put, it's when you push the temperature control knob or slider all the way to the left, fully into the blue position—that's the lowest temperature setting point. My experience tells me this is because the system directly locks in maximum cooling output; the AC compressor goes all out, instantly dropping the air temperature to its minimum. The principle behind this is the temperature sensor working in tandem with the controller; turning the knob to the extreme blue sends a signal to maximize the cooling power. In most car models, the vent temperature is evenly distributed, but if you prefer a concentrated cool breeze, the central vents usually have stronger airflow. Just avoid setting it to the coldest for too long, as it might increase fuel consumption or give you a cold—I've learned this the hard way. It's best to start from the middle and adjust slowly, then slightly dial it back once the car cools down, saving your car and staying comfortable.
Was this review help?
16
3
Share
Expand All
DanteRose
10/08/25 2:04am
As a driver who's on the road every day, I must say the blue zone of the AC is actually quite practical. The coldest setting is achieved by turning the knob all the way to the blue end; for instance, during scorching summer days when I get in the car, I always make it a habit to twist the knob fully to the left first, ensuring the strongest blast of cool air. The design is pretty intuitive: blue indicates lower temperatures, while the red end delivers warm air—pulling it to the far left maximizes cooling. Why? The internal fan and compressor work in tandem; set the temperature low, and the air turns icy—my old car could always cool down rapidly this way. Notably, each vent has cold air outlets, though the temperature variation is minimal; if you use the foot vents more, the airflow feels stronger. Remind yourself not to set it too low for too long to avoid window fogging or rapid battery drain. Using it wisely saves energy while maintaining safe driving conditions.
Was this review help?
11
2
Share
Expand All
MacBella
11/21/25 3:22am
I think the coldest setting for the car air conditioning is at the lowest point of the blue zone, simply put, turning the control dial all the way to the end. For example, when I often drive with my family, kids in the back seat tend to get hot easily, so I directly turn it to the coldest position, and the air temperature drops immediately. This is based on the internal valve adjusting the airflow; the blue represents the end of the cooling range, and the deeper you adjust it, the cooler the air becomes. Avoid setting it to the extreme for too long to prevent discomfort.
Was this review help?
18
0
Share
Expand All
More Forum Discussions

How Many Times Can a Clutch Be Burned Out?

Clutch plates need to be replaced once they are burned out. If the clutch is kept in a semi-engaged state for an extended period with high engine RPM, it will cause more wear and tear, accompanied by issues such as shaking, slipping, and unusual noises, necessitating replacement. Reasons for clutch plate burn-out: prolonged usage or excessive mileage; natural aging of the clutch plate, substandard material quality; overheating due to high working temperatures; wear caused by insufficient lubrication; too small free travel or excessive load cycles. Symptoms of a burned-out clutch: Reduced power: The engine's power output is transmitted to the transmission via the clutch. When the clutch is burned out, the clutch plates slip, naturally leading to reduced power. Metal grinding noise: The friction surface of the clutch plate is secured with rivets. Burning the clutch will wear out the friction surface, causing the rivets to come into contact with the flywheel, resulting in a metal grinding noise when engaging or disengaging the clutch. Changed clutch pedal travel: Burning the clutch thins or eliminates the friction surface, altering the clutch pedal's travel. Gear shift jerking: The clutch plate contacts the flywheel. When the clutch is burned out and rivets are exposed, it leads to a strong jerking sensation during gear shifts.
4
2
Share

What Are the Causes of Incomplete Clutch Disengagement?

Clutch disengagement issues: Excessive free travel of the clutch pedal, bent or deformed release levers, oil leakage in the clutch hydraulic control mechanism. Excessive free travel of the clutch pedal: When the free travel is too large, the movement of the release bearing pushing the release lever forward is reduced, consequently shortening the rearward movement of the pressure plate, leading to incomplete clutch disengagement. Solution: Inspect the free travel of the clutch pedal and adjust it if excessive. Bent or deformed release levers: Bent or deformed release levers, loose supports, worn-through pivot pin holes, dislodged pivot pins, or uneven contact surfaces between the release levers and the release bearing. Solution: Immediately seek professional repair services to inspect and replace the release levers as needed. Oil leakage in the clutch hydraulic control mechanism: Leakage, air presence, or insufficient oil in the hydraulic control mechanism. Symptoms include difficulty in shifting gears even when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, or the vehicle moving forward without releasing the pedal, causing the engine to stall. This indicates incomplete clutch disengagement. Solution: For hydraulic control mechanisms, check if the fluid reservoir has insufficient oil or if there is air in the lines, and perform necessary purging.
1
0
Share

Do I Need to Press the Brake When Shifting Gears During Reverse Parking?

It is best to keep the brake pressed at all times. If you can ensure that the test vehicle does not roll in the garage, you may not need to press the brake. When shifting gears, the vehicle is required to be in a stopped state. If the vehicle rolls, it may be judged as a failure. Below are specific tips for reverse parking: 1. Identify the starting point: Take right reverse parking as an example. The distance between the car and the left line at the starting position should be 1.2-1.8 meters, the steering wheel should be straight, and the body should be parallel to the left line. When reversing, use the bottom edge of the left rearview mirror as a reference. When the two coincide, turn the steering wheel fully to the right and continue reversing. 2. Control the corner point: Look at the right rearview mirror. When you spot the garage corner point, pay attention to the changing distance between the corner point and the car body. When the distance is less than 30 cm, turn the steering wheel back halfway and continue reversing. Once the car body enters the garage and is parallel to the garage line, turn the steering wheel back one full turn. If the distance is not less than 30 cm, do not turn the steering wheel back. Keep reversing until the car body is parallel to the garage line, then turn the steering wheel back one and a half turns at once. 3. Align the stopping point: The stopping point is the parking spot after entering the garage. The reference method is the same as for the starting point. When you see the bottom edge of the left mirror coincide with the garage's shoulder line, stop the car.
4
2
Share

Where is the rearview mirror heating switch on the 10th-generation Civic?

Three curved upward arrows paired with a rectangle represent the rearview mirror heating button icon. 1. Vehicle model restrictions: Although rearview mirror heating is practical, it is restricted on some models. For example, the rearview mirror heating function only operates when the ambient temperature is below 15 degrees Celsius. 2. Power consumption: Note that rearview mirror heating consumes a significant amount of power. Therefore, when using the rearview mirror heating function, ensure the vehicle is in the running state and avoid using this function when the engine is cold. If the battery is low on charge or malfunctioning, the rearview mirror heating may not activate.
18
4
Share

What Level of Officials Are Eligible for the Hongqi L5?

Hongqi L5 is primarily designated for officials at the level of the President of the country, serving as a dedicated vehicle for receiving foreign guests. Below is a detailed introduction about the Hongqi L5: 1. Overview: The Hongqi L5 is a Class E sedan with 100% independent intellectual property rights, developed and prepared for production by FAW (China First Automobile Works) after the success of the Hongqi-branded parade vehicle project in 2009. 2. Other Features: The design of the Hongqi L5 continues the classic styling of the Hongqi CA770, incorporating many traditional elements. The front face of the Hongqi L5 is inspired by the CA7600J parade vehicle from the 2009 National Day celebration, featuring a dignified and elegant appearance. The round headlights and the streamlined front-mounted Hongqi emblem are iconic design elements of the Hongqi brand.
18
3
Share

What Happens When Rear Wheels Lock Up?

When the rear wheels lock up during braking, it may cause the vehicle to skid or fishtail, while front wheel lock-up can result in a loss of steering control. During driving, wheel lock-up may occur due to braking, where the braking torque causes the wheels to stop rotating and slide on the road surface—essentially, the tires stop turning, and the car slides like a brick on the road. Wheel lock-up results in pure sliding friction between the tires and the road. Front wheel lock-up leads to steering failure, preventing the vehicle from moving in the intended direction and instead causing it to drift toward the path of least resistance. Rear wheel lock-up, on the other hand, can induce what is commonly known as drifting. Since locked wheels lose the ability to resist lateral forces, the vehicle may experience skidding or loss of control. When wheels lock up, the driver should release the brake pedal. Vehicles equipped with an ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) can effectively prevent this situation. Tire lock-up refers to the sudden and complete stopping of the wheels when braking, causing the vehicle to lose steering capability. This typically occurs in vehicles without ABS. Wheel lock-up happens due to excessive braking force from the brake pads, discs, or drums. However, because of the vehicle's momentum, it continues moving forward with the tires sliding rather than rolling, making it impossible to change direction and potentially leading to accidents.
19
2
Share
Cookie
Cookie Settings
© 2025 Servanan International Pte. Ltd.