Which is the front brake and which is the rear brake on a motorcycle?

2 Answers
DelSkylar
07/29/25 11:18pm
The right-hand position is the front brake, and the left-hand position is the rear brake. For scooters, the front brake is always on the right side and controlled by the right hand, but there are two types of rear brakes: one is a hand brake controlled by the left hand, similar to bicycles—left for rear and right for front. Speed below 20 km/h: For belt-driven scooters, as long as the speed is not below 20 km/h, there is engine braking. Below this speed, the clutch is disengaged. Precautions: When a motorcycle decelerates, the rear wheel's grip decreases accordingly. At this time, braking still relies on the rear wheel, which may not match the desired braking effect. Improper operation may also cause the rear tire to lock up and skid, so riders should be cautious.
Was this review help?
5
2
Share
DelAmelia
08/16/25 1:44am
I have over a decade of experience riding motorcycles. When riding, the lever on the right handlebar is the front brake, and the one you step down with your right foot is the rear brake. At first, I often mixed them up, but after riding for a while, I learned that the front brake has stronger stopping power—a hard pull can bring you to an emergency stop. The rear brake is gentler and better suited for stabilizing the bike during turns or on slippery roads. I remember one heavy rain when I relied too much on the front brake and nearly lost control. Luckily, the rear brake steadied the bike and saved me. Now, I always advise new riders to practice coordinating both brakes on safe stretches of road—don’t rely on just one. This ensures daily rides are both safe and smooth. With enough practice, the movements become muscle memory, and checking the brake system before heading out becomes a habit.
Was this review help?
18
1
Share
Expand All
More Forum Discussions

Will the driver's license be invalid if not obtained within two years?

Driver's license will not be invalid if not obtained within two years. Validity period of driver's license examination: If you only registered for the exam but haven't taken or passed Subject 1, then the exam period will never expire. The driver's license won't be invalid if not obtained within two years. The validity period for the driver's license exam is three years, generally calculated from the date of the first Subject 1 exam, and it becomes invalid after exactly three years. Introduction to driver's license: The full name of the driver's license is motor vehicle driving license, also known as "driver's license". It is a certificate required by law for motor vehicle drivers. Driving a motor vehicle requires certain driving skills. Without these skills, driving a motor vehicle at will may lead to traffic accidents. Generally, people cannot drive on the road without a license. However, for those who have acquired safe driving skills, the document that allows them to drive vehicles on the road is the "driver's license". This indicates that a driver's license is a "permit".
20
4
Share

How to Drive in the S-Curve for Subject 2?

Below are the operation methods for driving in the S-curve for Subject 2: 1. Enter the first curve: Drive along the right side of the road into the curve, maintain a slow and steady speed, turn the steering wheel to the left, and shift the vehicle from driving on the right side to the left side. 2. Enter the second curve: Keep the left wheels of the vehicle 0.5m away from the edge of the road and adjust the direction appropriately. When exiting the curve, turn the steering wheel back to enter straight driving. Additional tips: 1. When entering the curve, slow down in advance and stay on the right side; do not turn the steering wheel too quickly or sharply; try to choose a route with a larger turning radius. 2. Avoid using the brake, especially emergency braking; check the rearview mirror—it's essential to learn how to use it. Also, master the clutch by using the half-clutch technique.
16
3
Share

What Causes Engine Knock in Cars?

Car engine knock is caused by: 1. Excessively advanced ignition timing: When ignition occurs too early during the compression stroke, most of the air-fuel mixture burns while the piston is still compressing, causing the remaining unburned mixture to auto-ignite under extreme pressure, resulting in knock. 2. Severe carbon buildup in the engine: Excessive carbon deposits in the combustion chamber not only increase the compression ratio but also create hot spots on the carbon surface, leading to engine knock. 3. Overheating engine: High intake air temperatures in hot environments or poor engine coolant circulation can both cause high-temperature engine knock. 4. Incorrect air-fuel ratio: An overly lean fuel mixture raises combustion temperatures, which increases engine temperature and makes knock more likely to occur.
18
4
Share

What is the reason why the Audi air conditioner sometimes cools and sometimes does not?

The reason why the Audi air conditioner sometimes cools and sometimes does not is due to an issue with the amount of refrigerant. The specific reasons are as follows. Insufficient cooling caused by excessive refrigerant: Excessive refrigerant is usually caused by overfilling during maintenance, as the proportion of refrigerant in the air conditioning system has specific requirements. If the proportion is too high, it can affect heat dissipation, meaning more heat dissipation leads to greater cooling capacity; conversely, less heat dissipation results in reduced cooling capacity. Similarly, adding too much cooling oil during maintenance can also decrease the system's heat dissipation. Insufficient cooling caused by low refrigerant: The main reason for insufficient refrigerant is typically minor leaks in the system. If there is insufficient refrigerant in the air conditioning system, the amount of refrigerant sprayed into the evaporator from the expansion valve will also decrease. As a result, when the refrigerant evaporates in the evaporator, the amount of heat absorbed will decrease, leading to reduced cooling capacity.
12
3
Share

What Causes the Unstable Fluctuation of the Temperature Gauge?

The unstable fluctuation of the temperature gauge is caused by a faulty coolant temperature sensor or a damaged thermostat. The engine coolant temperature, if fluctuating erratically, indicates an abnormality in the vehicle's cooling system. The erratic behavior of the temperature gauge can be due to dirt on the contact surface between the coolant temperature sensor and the coolant, aging of the thermistor, abnormal operation of the voltage regulator, a short circuit in the heating coil of the temperature gauge, or an unstable thermostat sensor that intermittently opens and closes, leading to the fluctuating readings. Below are detailed explanations: Faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor: If the coolant temperature sensor fails or malfunctions, the engine ECU will detect an unreliable output signal and intervene by using a substitute value to protect the engine. This results in unstable readings on the temperature gauge, along with symptoms such as difficulty in cold starts and poor acceleration. Damaged Thermostat: The thermostat automatically adjusts the flow of coolant into the radiator based on the temperature, altering the coolant's circulation range to regulate the cooling system's efficiency and ensure the engine operates within the optimal temperature range. A damaged thermostat disrupts the engine's normal operating temperature, causing instability in the temperature gauge readings.
18
0
Share

What Causes Abnormal Noise When Depressing the Clutch and Shifting Gears While Driving?

Here are the reasons for abnormal noise when depressing the clutch and shifting gears while driving: 1. Slightly depress the clutch pedal to make the release lever contact the release bearing. If a "grinding" or "scraping" sound is heard, it indicates noise from the release bearing. If the noise persists after lubrication, the bearing is excessively worn and should be replaced. 2. If the noise occurs when the pedal is fully depressed and disappears when released, it suggests looseness or breakage of the clutch damper spring. 3. If the noise occurs when repeatedly depressing the pedal, either just as the clutch engages or disengages, it indicates loose rivets or excessive wear of the spline. 4. If there is intermittent collision noise, it may be due to axial play of the release bearing. In this case, the release bearing return spring should be replaced.
10
2
Share
Cookie
Cookie Settings
© 2025 Servanan International Pte. Ltd.