
The correct place to put a car jack depends entirely on your vehicle's design. For most unibody cars (the majority of modern passenger vehicles), you must use the dedicated jack points located along the side sills, often marked by notches or reinforced sections. For trucks and body-on-frame SUVs, you can safely jack under the solid axle or a designated point on the frame.
Using the wrong spot can cause serious damage to the vehicle's underbody, brake lines, or fuel lines, and create a severe safety hazard. The owner's manual is the ultimate authority and will have diagrams showing the precise locations.
Common Jack Point Locations:
| Vehicle Type | Primary Jack Points | Alternative/Support Jack Points | Absolutely Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Unibody Car | Pinch welds (reinforced seams along sill) | Front crossmember, rear differential (if solid) | Floor pans, oil pan, suspension control arms |
| Truck/Frame SUV | Frame rails, solid axles | Specified points on front crossmember | Exhaust system, fuel tank, running boards |
| For Emergency Scissor Jack | Factory-marked notch on pinch weld | - | Anywhere else on the vehicle body |
When lifting the car, always park on a level, solid surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks against the tires opposite the end you're lifting. Once the car is jacked, never get underneath it without supporting it with jack stands placed on solid, stable points. The jack is for lifting only; the stands are for holding the weight securely.

Look for the reinforced seams along the bottom of your car's doors—those are the pinch welds. There’s usually a little notch or a plastic piece that’s meant for the jack to slot into. That’s your spot. If you’re using the scissor jack that came with the car, it should fit perfectly there. Jacking anywhere else on the body, like the flat floor, is just asking to put a hole in it. Always check your manual to be sure; it’ll have a picture.

Safety is the number one rule. The jack can fail, so you must use jack stands once the car is in the air. I only use the factory jack points to get the car up high enough to place the stands on a more solid part of the frame or a reinforced subframe. For a quick tire change, the pinch weld point is fine for the jack, but if I'm going under the car, the stands go on the heaviest, strongest metal I can find, like the front crossmember or the axle housing.

On my old truck, it's simple: you jack right under the solid rear axle or the strong steel frame rails. But my wife's sedan is different. It has those specific little points behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels. I learned the hard way that if you miss those spots, you can easily bend the metal. It’s not like the old days where you could just jack anywhere. Now, the first thing I do with any new car is check the manual to find the exact jack points diagram.

The best practice is to consult your vehicle's owner's manual. It contains precise diagrams tailored to your specific model, showing the manufacturer-approved jacking locations. These designated points are engineered to handle the concentrated stress of lifting. Using them prevents costly damage to components like the exhaust, brake lines, or the vehicle's unibody structure. This is especially critical with modern cars, which lack the heavy, full-length frame of older trucks. Taking a moment to reference the manual is the safest and smartest first step.


