
When changing tires on a small car, jack it up at the reinforced jacking points located near each wheel, typically marked by notches or indicators on the vehicle's underside. Tires operate under complex and demanding conditions, enduring various deformations, loads, forces, and extreme temperature fluctuations during use. Consequently, they must possess high load-bearing capacity, traction performance, and shock absorption. Additionally, tires require excellent wear resistance, flex resistance, low rolling resistance, and minimal heat generation. By application, tires are categorized into: passenger car tires, light truck tires, construction machinery tires, off-road vehicle tires, agricultural and forestry machinery tires, industrial vehicle tires, motorcycle tires, aircraft tires, and special-purpose vehicle tires.

Last time I changed my tires myself, I also pondered this issue and specifically checked the manual. Small cars have specially designed support points on both sides of the chassis, usually near the area behind the wheel arches. You can feel raised grooves or metal plates by hand. Remember not to jack near the fuel tank or exhaust pipe, as those areas are thin and can deform under pressure. Once, my friend jacked at the wrong spot and dented the underbody shield, costing hundreds to repair. Now when changing tires, I always bring a small flashlight to check and make sure I find the proper, square load-bearing point before proceeding. Actually, the most stable positions to remember are half an arm's distance behind the front wheels and half an arm's distance in front of the rear wheels—those spots have extra-thick metal reinforcement.

The first time I changed a tire, I made the mistake of jacking up the car in the wrong spot. In my hurry, I placed the jack directly under the plastic side skirt, and with a crack, the plastic split open. Later, a mechanic told me that small cars have four specially designed jacking points near each wheel, located roughly on the metal beam beneath the door sill when viewed from under the chassis. The best spot is the raised square mark directly below the door seam. Now, before changing a tire, I always squat down and tap around with my hand—the spot that sounds solid is the metal frame, while hollow areas should never be jacked up.

I used to think any metal spot would do until one time the jack slipped and the car almost fell. Now I know the safest jacking points for sedans are on the chassis frame rails, where you can find notched or marked reinforced steel plates near both front and rear wheels. My personal habit is placing the jack about 20cm inward from the tire along the chassis, where there are usually welded reinforcement ribs. Remember never to jack near the fuel tank or brake lines - that's extremely dangerous.

I've disassembled the chassis of over a dozen cars and found consistent patterns in jacking points for family sedans. Manufacturers design specific jacking grooves on both sides of the chassis, typically located near suspension connection points. When using a jack, always align it precisely with the groove center to prevent slippage. I've observed that Japanese cars have more visible jacking points, while German cars sometimes conceal them under protective panels requiring exploration. Before changing tires, it's best to manually locate the position and ensure the jack base makes full contact before lifting.


