
Any wire connected to the metal body of the car can serve as a ground. Here are the relevant details: 1. The main ground wire between the battery and the car body: One end of this wire is connected to the battery terminal, and the other end is connected to the car frame, sometimes via a master switch. Some cars do not have this master switch. Since battery terminals are prone to corrosion and sulfation, this ground wire often has poor contact with the battery. Poor grounding is like adding a large resistor to the car's electrical circuit, which can make the engine difficult to start and the lights dim in mild cases, or prevent the engine from starting altogether, leaving the entire car without power in severe cases. 2. The ground wire between the engine and the body or battery: The engine is not directly connected to the metal body; it is mounted on the car's frame with rubber pads to reduce vibration. Poor engine grounding can prevent the starter from working, the generator from producing electricity, or the electricity generated from being delivered. It can also cause sensors to fail to detect accurate signals, spark plugs to produce weak sparks, and directly affect the engine's performance.

In the first two years after buying my car, I didn’t understand much about grounding wires either, but I gradually figured it out. The car’s grounding wire is usually connected to a metal part of the body, such as a bolt hole in the engine bay, a hinge near the door, or any fixed point on the chassis frame. The exact location depends on the car model, but the key is to ensure a solid connection to the metal body to complete the circuit. If the ground connection is loose or rusty, issues can arise—dashboard lights flickering, slow ignition during startup, or static noise in the radio. I recommend regularly checking those contact points, using sandpaper to remove rust, and keeping them clean. After driving for years, I’ve learned not to overlook this small detail. If problems do occur, it’s best to just spend a little money at the repair shop to get it fixed.

I always enjoy tinkering with my car myself. When it comes to the grounding wire, it's crucial to find a stable metal grounding point, such as on the engine bay wall near the engine or on a bolt of the car frame. When I do my own car repairs, I first use a multimeter to check if the grounding is properly connected. I often choose lower points for grounding to prevent corrosion from water accumulation. If the grounding is not solid, the car may have difficulty starting, and in severe cases, the ABS light might come on, which can be quite alarming. I've dealt with similar situations before—after cleaning off accumulated dust and tightening the screws, everything returned to normal. Regularly checking these points to ensure they're not loose or covered by oil and grime is a maintenance habit that can save you a lot on repair costs and prevent dangerous situations during night driving.

Having driven for half a lifetime, I can tell you that the grounding wire can be connected to any metal surface on the car body, such as the seat base or the bracket of the hood. The key point is not to be careless: the contact surface must be clean and free of rust, otherwise the current won't flow smoothly. I've experienced situations where poor grounding caused the car lights to flicker and the battery to drain quickly. Simply put, it completes the circuit loop, and where it's connected, though small, affects the entire system. Pay attention to cleaning the contact points in daily use, and if problems arise, have a mechanic fix them.


