
Van jacks are generally placed on the raised position of the side rail near the tire to be replaced. If not operated correctly by placing the jack on the chassis steel plate, bumper, or crossbeam, there is a high probability that the jack may deform the side skirt, causing unnecessary damage to the chassis. A jack is a lightweight lifting device that uses a rigid lifting component as the working device to lift heavy objects within its stroke through a top support or bottom claw. It is mainly used in factories, mines, transportation, and other sectors for vehicle repairs and other lifting and support tasks. Each jack has its designed maximum load capacity. Remember not to support weights exceeding this limit to prevent accidents due to insufficient support force.

As a veteran driver with ten years of experience driving vans, I'm telling you to find the dedicated support points under the chassis. There is a longitudinal beam on each side of the undercarriage, located between the front and rear wheels. Manufacturers usually reinforce these areas or mark them with grooves. Before jacking up the car, it's best to crouch down and look for raised metal blocks or spots marked with a jack symbol. On my Changan van, for example, there's a small welded steel block in the middle of the side beam—that's the most stable spot to place the jack. Remember, never jack near the thin areas beside the fuel tank; not only can the chassis deform, but it might also cause oil leaks. Once, I saw a neighbor jacking at the wrong spot, and the suspension started making strange noises afterward. Always remember to chock the wheels with stones for safety—these are all lessons I've learned the hard way.

I noticed many beginners directly use the jack to lift the side skirts or bumper clips of the car, which is wrong! The actual support points for vans are on the chassis longitudinal beams. Lift the carpet under the front seats and check the vehicle manual—it clearly marks the jacking points with diagrams. Different brands have different locations: my friend’s Wuling has them under the third-row seats, while my Dongfeng Xiaokang’s are 20 cm in front of the rear wheels. The metal contact surfaces are usually reinforced, and you’ll hear a 'click' when properly engaged. If the road is uneven, it’s best to place wooden planks under the jack base to prevent slipping.

Actually, jacking up a car at the wrong position is extremely dangerous. Since vans have higher ground clearance than sedans, extra caution is needed. There are typically four dedicated jacking points, with two near each axle. Remember to engage the handbrake, shift into gear, and turn off the engine before lifting. If on a slope, use rocks to chock the diagonal wheels. Last time I changed a tire, I jacked it up on the reinforcement plate at the longitudinal beam weld seam – that area can bear the entire vehicle weight. Never jack up on the fuel tank or exhaust pipe, and the plastic underbody panels are the most vulnerable to puncture. If you're really unsure, calling your insurance company for roadside assistance is the safest option.

Last week, I helped my child's uncle change the spare tire on his van and specifically taught him how to identify the right spots. The van's longitudinal beams are located beneath the doors, felt as two sturdy metal ridges. We positioned the jack tray on the raised point with anti-slip grooves between the front and rear wheels. Tip: If the ground is soft, place a wooden board underneath and stand clear when lifting. Once, I saw my cousin position it wrong—the whole van tilted and wobbled, which was terrifying. Experienced owners know there's a spare pad hidden in the storage compartment under the driver's seat, just for emergencies.


