
Crown crankshaft position sensor is located near the air conditioning pump. The detection methods for the crankshaft position sensor are as follows: 1. Resistance detection of the crankshaft position sensor: Unplug its wiring connector, and use a multimeter to measure the resistance between each terminal on the sensor. The values should comply with the specifications in the attached table; otherwise, it is damaged and needs replacement. 2. Output signal detection of the crankshaft position sensor: Unplug the wiring connector of the crankshaft position sensor. When the engine is turned, there should be pulse signal output between G1-, G2-, and G- terminals. If there is no pulse signal output, replacement is required. 3. Gap detection between the sensor coil and the signal rotor: Use a feeler gauge to check the air gap between the signal rotor and the sensor coil protrusion. The gap should be 0.2~0.4mm. If the gap does not meet the requirements, replacement is needed.

Last time I did on our old Crown, it took quite a while to locate the crankshaft sensor after removing the engine guard plate. It's usually hidden beside the crankshaft end cover with the pulley on the engine side, while on some older models it may be installed above the flywheel housing. Reaching in from the engine bay is particularly troublesome - you'll need to remove parts like the intake pipe first to access it. A reminder: don't force pry it yourself as the plastic clips become brittle with age and break easily - it's better to use a lift and work from underneath. If this component gets displaced, the ECU won't receive crankshaft speed signals, and the engine warning light will immediately illuminate on the dashboard. If replacing it yourself, pay special attention to bolt torque - overtightening can crack the aluminum alloy housing.

Nothing annoys me more than hunting for this part during repairs - the Crown's crankshaft sensor is always tucked away in the most awkward spot. It's mounted flush against the engine block at the tail end of the crankshaft, usually requiring removal of the right front wheel liner just to access it. You can barely reach that black plastic head with your fingers, while the wiring harness gets baked rock-hard by the exhaust manifold. This sensor acts like the engine's pulse monitor - even a 0.5mm misalignment can cause ignition chaos, resulting in obvious misfiring sounds during cold starts. Pro tip: keep an extended magnetic pickup tool handy. Last time I dropped a washer in the oil pan groove, it took me half an hour to fish it out.

Last week, my cousin's Crown showed a trouble code P0335. Checking the manual revealed it was a crankshaft signal issue. This component is mounted on the engine housing above the front axle, with a round head design and a three-pin connector. When reading the data stream with a diagnostic tool, it was found that the RPM signal would fluctuate wildly when gently shaking the wiring harness at idle. The semicircular alignment groove on the back of the sensor must align with the engine block's locating pin; misalignment can cause the camshaft signal to go out of sync. As an interesting side note: Older Crown models tend to accumulate oil sludge in this area, requiring a half-hour soak with carburetor cleaner to remove the connector during cleaning.

The location of this Crown sensor is quite an ergonomic nightmare. You have to crawl under the car to see it embedded above the junction of the engine and transmission, surrounded by oil pipes and brackets. Last time I helped my neighbor replace it, I discovered a trick: first unplug the connector and measure the resistance, which should normally be between 800-1200Ω. Its hidden location leads many repair shops to skip installing the sealing ring for convenience, resulting in transmission oil seeping in and frying the sensor chip. A reminder: always buy OEM parts, as aftermarket magnetic sensor heads are prone to inaccuracy due to engine heat.

If the Crown makes a clicking noise but fails to start, it's likely a crankshaft signal issue. The sensor is usually mounted on the side of the engine block, facing the signal gear ring at the end of the crankshaft. Once, while helping a car club troubleshoot this problem, I found that on older models it's located behind the alternator, while newer models have it moved above the starter. Don't underestimate that finger-sized component - it controls the entire vehicle's fuel injection timing. During installation, always remember to clean metal debris from the magnetic head. Last time, I saw someone who didn't clean it properly, resulting in intermittent misfires - they replaced the sensor three times before identifying the root cause.


