
You can buy a non-running car from several primary sources: online auctions like Copart and IAAI, classified ad platforms such as Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist, local junkyards or salvage yards, and through forums dedicated to specific car models or projects. The best choice depends on your goals—whether for parts, restoration, or flipping. Online auctions offer the widest selection but often include fees, while local listings can facilitate easier inspection but require more diligent searching.
For a restoration project, your priority is finding a car with a solid body and frame, often referred to as a "rust-free shell." Rust repair is labor-intensive and expensive. Websites like Bring a Trailer sometimes list non-running "project cars," but they can be pricey. If you need parts, a local junkyard might be the most cost-effective option, as you can often remove the parts yourself.
Always inspect the vehicle in person if possible. Check the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to ensure the car has a clean title and isn't stolen. A "salvage title" means an insurance company declared it a total loss, which significantly impacts its value. Ask the seller why the car doesn't run; a simple issue like a dead battery is very different from a seized engine.
Here’s a comparison of common sources:
| Source | Typical Condition | Pricing | Best For | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Online Auctions (e.g., Copart) | Wide range, from collision damage to mechanical failure | Often low starting bids, plus auction fees | Mechanics, flippers, parts harvesting | Buyer fees can add 10-20% to the final price; limited inspection. |
| Classifieds (e.g., Facebook Marketplace) | Varies widely; often personal project cars | Negotiable, typically priced for quick sale | DIY enthusiasts, hobbyists | High risk of scams; insist on in-person meet-up. |
| Local Junkyards/Salvage Yards | Primarily for parts; may be incomplete | Very low, sold "as-is" | sourcing specific parts | You usually tow the entire car; the vehicle may be crushed if not sold. |
| Model-Specific Forums | Often more complete, owned by enthusiasts | Can be higher due to niche demand | Restoration projects | Community knowledge can help assess the car's potential and rarity. |
Your final cost isn't just the purchase price. Factor in towing costs, potential storage fees, and the price of parts needed for repair. Buying a non-running car is a calculated risk, but with thorough research, it can be a rewarding project.

Check Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist first. I've found my last two project cars there. People just want them gone from their driveway. Use search terms like "parts car," "non-running," or "project car." The key is to be ready to move fast and always, always go see it yourself. Don't send money ahead of time. Be prepared to arrange a tow truck on short notice if you make a deal.

As a hobbyist who loves bringing old cars back to life, my go-to spots are estate sales and local classifieds. You'd be surprised how many cars are sitting in garages because someone just didn't get around to fixing them. The owners are often not car people, so they just want it removed. It takes patience, but you can find gems with minimal rust and complete interiors. It feels more personal than a big auction site, and you can usually have a real conversation about the car's history.


