What type of engine oil is suitable for the Mazda Axela?
3 Answers
The Mazda Axela uses higher viscosity engine oil in summer, such as 15W50, 15W40, 20W50, etc.; in winter, lower viscosity engine oil is recommended, such as 5W40, 5W30 or 10W30, 10W40, etc. Generally, the amount of engine oil should be between the upper and lower limits, and must not exceed the upper limit. In terms of body dimensions, the Mazda Axela measures 4582mm in length, 1795mm in width, and 1458mm in height, with a wheelbase of 2700mm. The car is equipped with 1.5L and 2.0L high-compression ratio direct-injection gasoline engines, paired with a 6-speed manual or 6-speed automatic transmission.
I've been driving my Mazda3 Axela for over three years and always use 0W-20 full synthetic oil for maintenance. The 4S dealership recommends this grade as the best match for Skyactiv engines. The manual clearly specifies low-viscosity oil because it flows better during cold starts, quickly lubricating precision components, and maintains good stability at high temperatures. I've used both OEM Idemitsu and Shell's 0W-20 oils with an oil change interval of around 8,000 km, occasionally advancing to 7,000 km for long trips. Don't opt for cheaper high-viscosity oils like 5W-30 - they'll cause fuel consumption to skyrocket and increase engine noise. Last time my friend used 5W-30, the throttle response noticeably became heavier. Remember to replace the oil filter simultaneously during oil changes, as roadside shops often skip this step. By the way, regions with frequent sub-zero temperatures in winter should insist on using 0W-grade oil, otherwise morning startups will become difficult.
Just had my Mazda3 serviced last week. The mechanic repeatedly emphasized using 0W-20 oil, saying this engine has special construction with tight piston ring clearances where thicker oil would actually hinder lubrication. I checked the manual which indeed specifies API SP-certified 0W-20, and the genuine oil cans all bear the Mazda Moly logo. With so many counterfeit oils around, I stick to chain shops for changes - they've tested the oil's flow properties with equipment to confirm authenticity. Once I bought a cheap jug from an e-commerce platform, and the engine made terrible knocking noises during cold starts, scaring me into replacing it immediately. I recommend supervising the oil pouring during service - an apprentice almost added the wrong grade once before I stopped them. After the change, remember to drive at highway speeds for ten minutes to fully circulate the new oil.
