
For cleaning car headlight covers, the best approach is a two-step process: restoring the oxidized plastic and then protecting it. Start by using a dedicated headlight restoration kit, which typically includes various grits of sandpaper and a UV-resistant sealant. For mild cloudiness, a non-abrasive plastic cleaner and polish may suffice. The goal is to remove the yellowed, oxidized layer without damaging the underlying polycarbonate lens.
Headlight covers are made of polycarbonate plastic, which is durable but susceptible to UV degradation over time. This breaks down the protective coating, leading to a cloudy, yellowed appearance that significantly reduces light output and nighttime driving safety.
Materials to Use:
Materials to Avoid:
The effectiveness of different methods can be compared based on the level of oxidation and the expected clarity improvement.
| Headlight Cleaning Method | Best For Oxidation Level | Estimated Clarity Improvement | Longevity of Results | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toothpaste & Baking Soda | Very Light, DIY Test | 10-20% | 2-4 Weeks | Mild abrasive; no UV protection. |
| Plastic Cleaner/Polisher | Light to Moderate | 30-60% | 1-3 Months | Requires frequent reapplication. |
| Professional Restoration Kit | Moderate to Severe | 70-90% | 1-2 Years | Includes sanding and a new UV sealant. |
| Professional Replacement | Severely Pitted/Cracked | 100% (like new) | 5+ Years | Most expensive but permanent solution. |
After restoration, applying a UV-protectant spray or wipe is crucial to shield the clean plastic from the sun and extend the clarity of your work. For long-term maintenance, washing your headlights regularly when you wash your car and parking in the shade whenever possible will help slow down the re-oxidation process.

Skip the Windex and harsh chemicals. Grab a dedicated headlight restoration kit from any auto parts store. It’s designed for the job and comes with everything you need. The key is the final sealing step—it’s what keeps them from turning yellow again in a few months. A quick wash with car soap won't cut it for oxidized plastic; you need to polish and protect.

As someone who details cars on weekends, I treat headlight cleaning as a mini paint correction. The cloudiness is oxidized plastic, so you must abrade it away. I use a drill-attached kit with progressively finer sanding discs, from 500 grit for heavy yellowing up to 3000 grit for a smooth finish. The critical step everyone misses is the final wipe with an isopropyl alcohol mixture to remove all dust before applying the UV-blocking clear coat sealant. This ensures the new coating bonds properly for a long-lasting result.

Think of it like brushing your teeth. You wouldn't just rinse with water. You need a paste (the polish) to scrub off the gunk and a sealant (the fluoride) to protect them. I made the mistake of using baking paste once—it worked for a week, then they were worse. A proper kit is like a good toothbrush and toothpaste combo. It’s made for the job. Just take your time, follow the instructions, and you’ll be amazed at the difference it makes for driving after dark.

I’ve tried all the hacks—toothpaste, bug spray, you name it. They’re temporary and can mess up the plastic. What finally worked was a $20 kit from the store. It took me about 45 minutes for both lights. You sand them down with the included wet pads, which feels wrong but it’s necessary, then you buff on the protectant. The result was like getting brand new headlights. My advice is don’t waste time with shortcuts. A proper kit is a cheap and satisfying fix that makes your whole car look newer and, more importantly, lets you see the road clearly.


