What to Do When the Starter Motor Clicks but Doesn't Turn?
4 Answers
This situation may be caused by a damaged battery or a circuit malfunction. The battery is a crucial component of a car. Without it, the vehicle cannot operate normally. When the engine is not running, the battery supplies power to all electronic devices in the car and is also responsible for starting the engine. Common car faults include: 1. Poor idle operation; symptoms may include unstable idling with engine shaking, idle speed exceeding the upper limit, idle speed falling below the lower limit, or rough idling. These issues may be related to faulty or malfunctioning components such as fuel injectors, oxygen sensors, air flow sensors, exhaust gas recirculation valves, as well as poor connections in control circuits or vacuum lines. 2. Abnormal noises; such as "backfire," "popping," "surging," "knocking," and mechanical noises. "Backfire" occurs when combustion flames spray out from the intake pipe in the opposite direction of intake, accompanied by noise. Possible causes of "backfire" include clogged or stuck main fuel injectors or cold start injectors leading to an overly lean mixture, delayed or misfired ignition, unsealed intake valves, intake manifold leaks, or low or fluctuating fuel pressure.
I remember my car had the same issue, and I was sweating bullets at the time. The clicking sound means the starter solenoid is engaging, but the power isn't transferring. First, check the battery—it might not have enough voltage to turn the starter. Use a voltmeter; if it drops below 9.5V during cranking, it's too weak. I also tried tapping the starter housing—an old mechanic's trick that works when the brushes are stuck. If the battery terminals are hot and corroded, clean off the oxidation ASAP. Last time, my buddy’s car had a burnt relay—the click was very faint, and replacing it cost just 80 bucks. Winter makes it worse—the oil gets thick like honey, and the starter can’t crank the engine at all.
Don't panic when encountering this issue, let me walk you through the process. First, open the hood and test the battery voltage - if it's below 12.2V when cold, the battery is definitely drained. Try tapping the starter motor with a wrench; sometimes stuck carbon brushes can be loosened by vibration. Then inspect the wiring, paying special attention to whether the thick cable from battery to starter has exposed wires touching ground. I once found loose starter mounting screws causing poor grounding after jump-starting my car. If the starter spins but won't turn the engine, the fork mechanism is likely broken. For modified electrical systems, watch for anti-theft devices that may accidentally lock the starter circuit. In emergencies, you can push-start a manual transmission in second gear, but automatic transmissions will need roadside assistance.
Three common culprits for the starter not turning: weak battery, starter motor failure, or wiring issues. A battery's surface voltage can be misleading—use a specialized tester to check CCA values. The starter solenoid may engage, but if the copper contact surfaces are burnt, current won't flow; sanding them down can provide a temporary fix. Ever heard of a rotor seized in its copper sleeve? Repair shops often soak it in kerosene for hours. Don't overlook the ignition switch—worn contacts can cause intermittent failure. This issue is especially common in vehicles retrofitted with push-start systems.
