What to Do When the Car Won't Start in Winter?

[MacSkylar]

There are generally three main reasons why a car may not start in winter: 1. Some fluids in the car deteriorate or freeze, blocking the fuel lines and increasing engine resistance, making it difficult to start. 2. Short-distance driving causes condensation near the exhaust pipe due to temperature differences, which can freeze the exhaust pipe, leading to poor exhaust emission and preventing the car from starting. 3. The battery loses power quickly in low temperatures, making it difficult to start the car. To address these three issues, the following solutions can be applied: 1. Visit a 4S shop to check if the engine oil is suitable for winter use and replace it if necessary. 2. Push the car to a warmer location or use a hot water bottle to melt the ice in the exhaust pipe before starting the car—never use an open flame to heat the exhaust pipe. 3. Maintain the car battery and perform regular fault inspections.

[VanJeffrey]

I just went through this frustrating issue with my car last week! On a freezing morning, the engine simply refused to start no matter how many times I turned the key, and the dashboard lights were noticeably dimmer. The most likely culprit was the battery giving out – cold temperatures can reduce battery capacity by 30%. At -10°C, an old battery simply can't hold a charge. I eventually got it started using a jump starter. Also remember to check the battery terminals – greenish-white crystals indicate acid leakage corrosion, which needs to be cleaned with baking soda solution. When jump-starting, always connect positive to positive and negative to negative, and turn off all electronics before making connections. If your battery is 3-4 years old, replacing it before deep winter is the safest bet. Look for models labeled with 'cold cranking amps' – you can't go wrong with those.

[Phyllis]

Only hear clicking sounds when turning the key in the morning? Eighty percent chance it's the starter motor acting up. I've seen many cases where carbon buildup coats the starter - gently tapping the housing with a long-handled screwdriver can sometimes shake loose the adhesion. Older cars especially need attention to oil viscosity - 5W40 oil becomes too thick below -15°C, switching to 0W30 can reduce starter effort by 40%. If headlights were left on before shutdown, it's likely a battery drain issue. For jump starts, recommend waiting 20 minutes before cranking to allow battery absorption. Remember to rev the engine twice after starting to prevent secondary stalling.

[DelJourney]

Diesel car owners dread this the most! No. 0 diesel starts to wax up below 5°C, and the fuel filter can clog in minutes. Once, my car broke down in Inner Mongolia at -20°C because I didn’t switch to -35 diesel in advance. Shaking the anti-gel additive well before adding diesel is crucial, and wrapping the fuel lines near the filler neck with insulation is very effective. If installing a fuel heater, choose a spot within 50 cm of the fuel tank, and make sure the copper coil doesn’t touch the fuel line. As a last resort, use a blowtorch to heat the oil pan, but avoid wires and plastic parts. After a successful start, rev the engine to 1500 rpm and keep it running for ten minutes before driving.

[Leslie]

A muffled sound accompanied by a burnt smell when starting the engine may indicate that the generator carbon brushes have frozen and cracked. Last year, I repaired an Audi where the generator belt was extremely tight at -18°C, causing the rotor to seize. Another hidden cause could be an exhaust pipe blocked by ice, leading to stalling if exhaust gases can't escape. It's recommended to park with the front of the car facing north to prevent melted snow from backing up into the exhaust outlet. Owners with mechanical keys should carry spare keys, as smart keys often lose connection in low temperatures. The safest approach is to regularly check the battery's CCA rating; if it falls below 70% of the rated value, it should be replaced.