
Reasons why the car horn suddenly stops working: 1. Contact point erosion: Prolonged pressing of the horn can easily cause the horn contacts to erode, creating a certain level of impedance that weakens the current flowing through the electromagnetic coil (reducing the electromagnetic force). This makes it impossible to attract the armature to drive the diaphragm for normal vibration, resulting in a hoarse sound from the horn or even complete failure. 2. Moisture due to poor sealing: Although most car horns on the market have good sealing, over time, this sealing can degrade. When cleaning the interior, be careful around the horn area to prevent water vapor from entering, as this can cause moisture inside the horn, directly affecting its sound quality or even causing it to stop working entirely. 3. Poor contact at the electromagnetic coil terminal: Some horns have electromagnetic coil terminals connected not by welding but by aluminum rivets. If the insulation varnish on the enameled wire is not properly treated or the rivet connection is loose, poor contact (false connection) can occur, leading to intermittent horn functionality.

If you suddenly find your car horn not working, don't panic - it's often caused by a blown fuse. Open the engine compartment's fuse box, locate the fuse labeled for the horn, and check if it's blackened or broken. If so, replace it with one of the same amperage, usually costing around ten yuan. If it's not the fuse, the issue might be a loose horn button or a stuck relay contact due to burning. In this case, you'll hear the relay clicking when pressing the horn but no sound from the horn itself, indicating the relay needs replacement. For short circuits or corroded connectors due to rainwater, use a multimeter to check voltage - no power means wiring issues that require section repair. Horn damage itself is also common, especially in older vehicles used for several years. Worn or aged horn diaphragms should be replaced outright, costing only about 80-100 yuan. Safety must be prioritized - a malfunctioning horn during sharp turns or in pedestrian-heavy areas can easily cause accidents. Don't risk long drives with a faulty horn - perform initial self-checks before seeking professional repair.

I enjoy tinkering with my car in my spare time, and when the horn doesn't work, I troubleshoot step by step. First, check if the fuse is blown. Locate the horn fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, pull it out, and if the metal wire inside is broken, replace it with a spare or one of the same specification. Second, use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the horn connector. If there's no power, it indicates an issue with the button switch or relay. The relay is usually located on the panel near the driver's footwell. Remove it to check for oxidized or stuck contacts. Test a good relay by plugging and unplugging it to listen for sound changes. Third, test the circuit continuity. Check for corroded or loose connections, sand them down with sandpaper, and reconnect. For short circuits, inspect for damaged wire insulation and wrap it with tape for insulation—but always disconnect the battery's negative terminal first for safety. Finally, if the horn doesn't sound when directly connected to power, it's likely faulty. Replacing it with a new one, including installation, takes no more than half an hour. There's great fun in DIY, and with basic tools like screwdrivers, you can handle it. If you're unfamiliar with wiring, stop and consult a professional to avoid battery short circuits.

When the horn fails while driving, prioritize safety measures. Immediately turn on hazard lights and pull over to inspect. In most cases, a blown fuse causes abnormal current interruption—opening the fuse box and replacing the corresponding fuse may resolve it. If not, avoid forcing operation; contact roadside assistance or seek repairs. The horn is indispensable for emergency collision warnings—prolonged neglect, like in city traffic jams or blind-spot pedestrian encounters, multiplies risks. Simple causes include dirty buttons (wipe clean) or moisture-shorted wires (dry connectors), but professional diagnosis is more reliable. Remember: when vehicle abnormalities occur, slow down and choose a safe parking spot as the top priority—address issues only after ensuring personal and others' safety.


