
Check if the radiator is cracked or corroded, and take necessary remedial measures to avoid damage from installation or collision. Secondly, if the leakage is not severe, you can use soldering to repair the leaking area. Check whether the radiator drain switch is leaking or if there are holes or cracks in the upper and lower water chambers, and repair them accordingly.

The evaporator in my old car leaked last year, causing the AC to stop working completely. This metal box is buried deep behind the dashboard, requiring removal of the steering wheel, infotainment screen, and center console panels to access. I gritted my teeth and spent over 2,000 RMB at a specialized repair shop to replace it with an OEM part. The mechanic also thoroughly cleaned residual compressor oil from the lines - otherwise the new unit would have failed quickly too. Now I've learned my lesson: every year before summer, I have the shop check refrigerant line pressure with a leak detector. During car washes, I personally clear the windshield cowl drainage holes to prevent leaf-clogged drains from flooding and rusting the evaporator. I've also adopted the habit of turning off the AC compressor five minutes before shutting down the system, using fan-only mode to completely dry out condensation.

Having worked in the repair shop for ten years, I've seen hundreds of cases of evaporator leaks, with 80% being caused by corrosion perforation in the aluminum casing. In such cases, directly replacing it is the safest option, but remember to have the technician replace the dryer bottle simultaneously. The moisture in the old dryer bottle can corrode the new evaporator. After replacement, it's essential to perform a vacuum for over forty minutes, and the refrigerant must be charged according to the standard amount. Some shops skip the pressure test to save time, resulting in leaks again after two months. I recommend choosing an improved evaporator with anti-corrosion coating. Although it costs 200 more, its lifespan doubles. Pay special attention to whether the air conditioning drain pipe is clear during the rainy season; if blocked, the evaporator can turn into a pond.

If the AC isn't cooling, first check the pressure gauge - if the needle drops to zero, there's a leak. Replacing the evaporator in my compact car cost nearly a thousand, mostly due to the labor charges for dashboard removal. Three critical maintenance points: 1) The system must be vacuumed at least twice before refrigerant recharge to prevent air bubbles; 2) All sealing rings should be replaced; 3) Post-installation, verify the drain tube isn't leaking onto the passenger footwell. I now routinely inspect the cabin air filter quarterly - any mold spots prompt immediate duct cleaning. For short trips, I avoid AC use to minimize thermal cycling stress on the evaporator. Though tedious, this preventive approach is far cheaper than major repairs.


