What to Do When the Caliper Makes Metal Clanking Noises?
4 Answers
Remove the two caliper pins on the brake pump and apply grease, or replace all non-rubber caliper pins with rubber ones. Below is relevant information about calipers: 1. Introduction: A caliper is a tool used to measure length, categorized into dial calipers and non-dial calipers. External calipers are used to measure the outer diameter of a cylinder or the length of an object, while internal calipers measure the inner diameter of a cylindrical hole or the width of a groove. 2. How to Use Calipers: When taking measurements with external calipers on a steel ruler, one measuring face of the caliper should rest against the end face of the steel ruler, while the other measuring face aligns with the desired measurement mark. The line connecting the two measuring faces should be parallel to the steel ruler. For internal calipers, the method is similar, but the end face of the steel ruler must rest against an auxiliary plane, with one foot of the internal caliper also resting against this plane.
Last time I encountered this issue with the caliper rattling, it was a real headache. That metallic clanging sound is usually caused by a shifted metal shim or loose guide pins. The mechanic taught me a trick: first, press the brake pedal hard a few times to see if the noise disappears. If it still rattles, there's a good chance you'll need to remove the wheel and check the caliper's mounting bolts. Loose bolts not only risk damaging the brake disc but also accelerate brake pad wear. It's best to re-tighten them with a torque wrench, making sure to follow the manufacturer's specified parameters. While you're at it, check if the dust boots are torn—dry guide pins without lubrication are like rusty door hinges, squeaking and creaking enough to drive anyone crazy.
That metallic clanking sound from the caliper, like sheet metal banging, is downright unnerving. I've dealt with it myself through trial and error—first rule out loose brake pads. If the retaining clips on newly replaced pads aren't secured properly, they'll rattle. If the metallic noise only appears on bumpy roads, focus on checking the caliper bracket bolts. Tightening them to around 130 N·m with a socket wrench usually does the trick. By the way, sticky caliper pistons can also cause the pads to knock against the caliper, in which case you'll need to clean the piston dust boots. If you still can't pinpoint the issue, it's best to take it to a shop and have them inspect the entire chassis suspension with a lift—after all, a loose tie rod end ball joint can produce a very similar sound.
Veteran car modifiers will tell you: 80% of caliper noise issues stem from aftermarket part compatibility. Installed racing calipers without spacers? When the metal shim gap exceeds 3mm, it'll clang. For OEM calipers, it's usually sticky guide pins - remove them, clean with brake cleaner, then apply copper-based grease. Always check the anti-rattle shims behind brake pads; when these fall off, metal hits metal directly, creating sharp noises. If you hear thumping sounds over bumps, the caliper bracket bolts might be cracked - replace immediately. Pro tip: Check caliper bolt torque monthly; they loosen more easily than you'd think.