
It may be caused by the brake light switch not fully returning to its original position. Gently press the brake pedal back and forth to see if the switch above the brake pedal turns off. If it doesn't, the switch may already be damaged. If the brake indicator light at the rear of the car stays on, you need to check the brake switch and related wiring. If the brake indicator light on the dashboard is on, you need to check whether the brake fluid is sufficient or if the brake pads need to be replaced. If both the brake pads and brake fluid are normal, it may be due to the handbrake sensor or a short circuit in the related wiring. It is recommended to go to a professional repair shop for inspection and repair.

I've encountered this issue before. The constant illumination of the brake lights on a K2 is usually due to those common old problems. Try pushing the brake pedal up with your hand to see if it can return on its own. Sometimes the spring gets stuck or the pad wears out, preventing it from returning properly. The easiest fix is to check the small switch hidden behind the brake pedal, usually a plastic button, which can get stuck by the floor mat or have its contacts fused over time in older cars. My neighbor's car had this issue because the switch short-circuited due to water ingress, making the bulb light up like it was haunted. If you can't fix it temporarily but need to drive, just disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for half an hour; it might work for a while. I recommend going to a repair shop as soon as possible to read the fault codes with a scanner. Last time I fixed this, it only cost around 200 yuan including labor and parts.

Having run an auto repair shop for ten years, I can fix constantly illuminated brake lights with my eyes closed. Focus on checking three areas: the brake light switch, brake pedal stopper, and wiring in the central electrical box. The switch is easiest to inspect—it's located near the brake pedal linkage; just test continuity with a multimeter. Old K2 models often suffer from cracked rubber stoppers causing the pedal to jam when depressed—a new one costs just five bucks. Wiring issues are the most troublesome, requiring you to inspect the harness for grounding or short circuits. Remember to check fuse #14 for brake lights in the front engine compartment fuse box—don't let roadside shops trick you into replacing the entire assembly. If DIY-ing, keep some 10A fuses and WD-40 rust inhibitor handy.

Don't panic sis! My old K2 had the same issue last month. First, check under the driver's seat for a small mushroom-shaped button above the brake pedal. Clean the contacts with an alcohol-dipped cotton swab. It's probably caused by a sticky switch - replacement parts cost just 20 bucks online. If you can't replace it yourself, try this trick: open the trunk, remove the brake light bulb for a few minutes, then reinstall it. Sometimes the computer reset works. Last time my lights stayed on while driving to the dealership - got flashed like crazy by cars behind me, so embarrassing! Important reminder: keeping lights on drains the fast. Remember to disconnect the battery cable when parking overnight!

As a veteran driver with 20 years of experience, I recommend a three-step troubleshooting process. First, check if the brake pedal returns smoothly and use a flashlight to inspect whether the pedal stopper rubber pad is cracked or missing. Next, examine the high-mounted brake light, repeatedly opening and closing the tailgate to see if there's a wiring harness contact issue. The most reliable method is to borrow an OBD scanner to read the fault codes—if it shows a switch signal fault, you've practically nailed it. Last month, my car had this issue, and it turned out the aftermarket floor mat was too thick and blocked the pedal switch. A small tip: if the light stays on when the engine is off, connect an ammeter in series with the positive terminal; if the leakage current exceeds 0.5A, address it immediately.

The repair manual clearly indicates that there are only three possible causes for the constant illumination of the brake lights on a K2. For mechanical faults, check if the brake pedal linkage mechanism is lacking lubrication or stuck. For electronic faults, focus on examining the data stream of the BCM control module. Special cases require considering water ingress and short circuits in the tail light assembly, which are particularly common after rain. A practical test method: have someone observe if the high-mounted brake light illuminates when the brake is pressed. If it does, it indicates the switch and wiring are intact, and the issue lies in improper adjustment of the brake light switch. A common makeshift solution used by repair shops is to tape the switch contact to raise it by a few millimeters for emergency purposes. It's common sense to keep an emergency kit in the car, which should include spare bulbs and fuse chips.


