
If the remote lock fails or the car's remote transmitter antenna is aging, causing the remote key to not work, you can use the spare mechanical key to lock the door. If there is strong magnetic field interference around the car, the smart key may not function properly under such conditions. Try parking the car in a different location. Some criminals use radio signal jammers that emit electromagnetic waves at the same frequency as the lock signal, temporarily disabling the electronic code of the central lock.

Last time my car had the same issue, and after struggling for a while, I found out the key was almost out of battery. When the car key's battery is low, the signal transmission distance becomes shorter, and you have to press it right next to the door to lock it. Another possibility is strong electromagnetic interference nearby, like the card readers in mall underground garages, which can easily disrupt the signal. If the mechanical key can manually lock the door when inserted, but the remote doesn’t work, it’s most likely a key issue. Also, don’t forget to check if a door isn’t closed properly—whether it’s the trunk or a door slightly ajar, the central locking system will refuse to work. If the trunk sensor fails, the system might think it’s still open. In an emergency, use the mechanical key to lock the driver’s door, and the other three doors will follow—this is the most reliable old-school method.

This situation requires different approaches: If the remote locking isn't responding, first try replacing the key fob battery - that solves 90% of cases. If the mechanical key turns but won't lock, the door latch mechanism might be rusted and stuck - just spray some WD-40 lubricant. Sometimes the striker plate on the door frame gets loose and shifts position, preventing the latch from engaging - simply tighten it with a screwdriver. For older vehicles, watch out for aging central locking motors - you'll hear clicking sounds but no locking action, requiring part replacement. More obscure cases involve blown fuses - locate the 7.5A mini fuse marked with door lock symbol in the driver-side fuse box and replace it.

Don't rush to the repair shop just yet. Based on my experience, follow these three steps to check: First, repeatedly press the key fob to see if the car lights flash - flashing indicates signal reception. Second, use your phone's video recording function to focus on the door gap while pressing the lock button, checking for any movement of the lock tongue. Third, inspect all door seal rubber strips for small stones stuck inside. Last time, my car's lock mechanism was jammed by a coin my child had inserted. Additionally, for new cars, be aware of accidental activation of safety settings - some vehicles enter a super lock mode when the lock button is pressed twice consecutively, which might prevent locking. Finally, remember to gently tap the door lock motor area with a metal key handle; this might temporarily restore function if it's just poor contact.

With twenty years of auto repair experience, I always check the door lock temperature first when encountering this issue. In summer, the lock cylinder can jam due to thermal expansion after sun exposure—just cool it with an ice water bottle. Among mechanical failures, the most common is cable detachment; you can spot loose steel wires inside the door through the interior panel gaps. Another hidden cause is modified wiring, like oxidized parallel connections from added anti-theft devices. Here's a key tip: manually press the driver-side lock button while seated—if other locks respond, the central control is fine, and the issue lies in the receiver module. Hidden under the passenger floor mat, moisture can disable the receiver module; try a ten-minute blow-dryer blast.


