
If your car brakes are making abnormal noises, the solution can be determined based on the specific situation. Here is an analysis of the possible causes of brake noise: 1. Brake Pad Issues: Abnormal noises from brake pads are usually caused by wear and tear scraping the disc, in which case simply replacing the brake pads will suffice. Another cause could be aging of the brake pad surface or sharp edges, which can be resolved by grinding the surface and edges of the brake pads. 2. Brake Disc Deformation: If the noise is caused by the brake disc wobbling from side to side and scraping against the brake pads while driving, grinding the brake disc to repair the deformation will fix the issue. Alternatively, if the noise is due to rust on the brake disc surface, the sound will usually disappear on its own after a few minutes of driving as the rust is worn off during braking.

Recently, my car's brakes also made a squeaking noise. My first reaction was to check the brake pad thickness, because when they wear thin, they produce a metal-on-metal friction alarm sound. Remember to park the car in a safe place and use a flashlight to inspect between the brake disc and pad. If you see exposed metal shims, it's time to replace them. Last time, I also encountered strange noises after rain. The mechanic said it was due to rust on the brake discs sticking to sand and gravel, and using a high-pressure water gun to clean the inside of the wheel hub solved the problem. If you hear sharp sounds, don't delay—try pumping the brakes a few times first. If the noise disappears, it might just be a small stone stuck in there. But if the noise persists, you should go to a repair shop to check the brake caliper and guide pins—this isn't a safe job to DIY. Never ignore brake noises, especially when going downhill, as sudden brake failure can be extremely dangerous.

Last winter, my car's brakes kept making a 'clunking' sound, especially when starting the engine cold. A mechanic friend told me it was mainly due to the brake pads hardening in low temperatures, and the noise would go away after driving for about ten minutes once the car warmed up. However, he also warned me that if the noise persisted for two weeks straight, it was likely that the brake pads had worn down to their limit. Later, I learned a self-check method: after parking, feel the temperature of the wheel hubs—if one wheel is noticeably hotter, it could mean the brake caliper on that wheel isn't retracting properly. Now, during every session, I ask the technician to sand the edges of the brake pads to prevent noise. Remember, brake noises can be categorized into high-pitched squeals and low-pitched thuds—the former usually indicates pad issues, while the latter may point to loose suspension components.

As someone who frequently drives long distances, I've found that brake noise is related to driving habits. Frequent hard braking can cause hard spots to form on the brake pads, resulting in squeaking when braking. Now I make it a habit to slow down in advance to reduce brake load. During my last , the technician demonstrated using a dial indicator to measure brake rotor flatness - if the deviation exceeds 0.05mm, the rotors need resurfacing. They also recommended ceramic brake pads, which are more expensive but produce less dust and are less prone to noise. When washing the car, avoid spraying high-pressure water directly at the brakes as moisture ingress can cause rust and noise. If noise persists after installing new brake pads, it might be due to improperly installed shims or brake fluid with excessive water content.

When moving the car in the morning, I heard a 'hissing' sound. The mechanic said this is normal because there's a thin layer of rust on the brake disc surface, which will wear off after driving a couple of kilometers. However, if it persists for more than three days, you should check if the backing plate of the brake pad has come unglued—I've seen cases where the adhesive layer ages and causes a rattling noise. Now, every 5,000 kilometers, I remove the tires myself and use a toothbrush to clean the mud and dirt from the brake caliper guide grooves, a detail task that dealerships often overlook. Recently, I learned a new trick: slowly reversing in a quiet garage while applying the brakes helps pinpoint the exact location of abnormal noises more accurately. Be sure to distinguish between tire noise and brake noise—the latter usually occurs the moment you press the pedal.

Don't panic when encountering brake noise. I usually perform three tests first: lightly press the brake to listen for the sound location, firmly press to feel pedal vibration, then push the car in neutral to check for friction sounds. Last time, it was caused by a lip on the brake disc edge, which was solved with an 80 yuan resurfacing. The mechanic taught me a money-saving trick: if the front brakes are noisy, try swapping the brake pads with the rear ones, but don't tamper with rear wheels that have electronic parking brakes. If metal scraping sounds persist, replace the pads immediately to avoid damaging the brake disc. Remember to lubricate the guide pins when changing brake pads, or the new ones will quickly become noisy too. Applying brake anti-seize paste before the rainy season is particularly effective.


