
Solutions for when all vehicle warning lights are on: 1. Check if there are any issues with the battery terminals, disconnect the negative terminal and reconnect it, then start the vehicle; 2. Measure the generator's output voltage; if it's around 14v, it indicates that the generator's output is not insufficient; 3. Use a diagnostic tool to check for any fault codes and narrow down the analysis based on the codes. Reasons for all vehicle warning lights being on: 1. CAN bus fault in the ECU or poor contact at the ECU's CAN interface; 2. Excessive dirt and carbon deposits causing abnormal air flow, leading to inaccurate control of normal air intake and unstable gas content, which affects engine performance; 3. Low fuel pressure combined with poor constant pressure performance results in low system atomization levels, making the vehicle difficult to start.

Yesterday, when I was driving my kid to school, I encountered this situation where all the warning lights suddenly lit up. Don't panic—the first thing to do is to slowly pull over and turn on the hazard lights. This is usually caused by a glitch in the car's computer or a dying battery. Last time, it happened to me because of a loose battery cable. Don't keep driving, especially on the highway—if the steering wheel locks up, it's a disaster. First, turn off the engine, wait ten minutes, and restart it; sometimes the system resets and the problem goes away. If the lights are still on, check the fuse box for any blown fuses—this is something you can replace yourself. If you really can't figure it out, call a tow truck—never attempt a long-distance drive with all the warning lights on. Many new cars have overly sensitive electronic systems; even a dirty wheel speed sensor can trigger false alarms.

Having repaired cars for over a decade, I've seen many such cases. When multiple warning lights come on simultaneously, there's an 80% chance it's a vehicle-wide electrical issue—either the battery voltage is too low or the main control module has short-circuited. You should first check if the dashboard displays specific trouble codes, like an engine symbol with an exclamation mark. Focus on three key areas: whether the battery terminals are loose, if rodents have chewed through the ground wiring harness, and the 30A main fuse controlling the entire vehicle in the fuse box. If you smell burning, disconnect the battery cable immediately. Modern cars use CAN bus systems, where a single sensor failure can affect the entire vehicle. I recommend average car owners avoid DIY repairs—use an OBD scanner to read the trouble codes first, then visit a repair shop. Randomly unplugging connectors might fry the ECU.

Last month my car had the same issue, sharing a few self-help tips. After safely parking, open the hood and tap the battery terminals—vibration can restore connection if it's loose. Turn off power-consuming devices like AC and stereo; when voltage is low, all car lights may flicker. Use your phone's flashlight to inspect the wiring harness near the accelerator pedal for any exposed wires. Keep a jump starter at home; sometimes a jump start can fix it. For older cars, check if the alternator belt is broken; for newer cars, watch out for wrong or low-quality fuel. If you can drive to the repair shop, maintain a steady speed under 60 mph and monitor the temperature gauge. Most cases are minor issues—replacing a $20 crankshaft sensor often does the trick.


