
If the inner CV joint won't come off, you need to use a pry bar to lever it out as there is a retaining clip inside. The inner and outer CV joints are collectively referred to as CV joints, which are crucial components in a car's drivetrain system. Their function is to transmit the engine's power from the transmission to the two front wheels, enabling the car to drive at high speeds. Inner CV joints come in two types: tripod and six-ball. The tripod-type tripod joint does not have steel balls inside; instead, it uses three bearings with needle rollers that can slide within three tracks in the bell-shaped housing. This type is mainly used for the inner CV joints of four-wheel-drive vehicles, suitable for positions where the inner CV joint does not require large twisting angles. It can slide inward and outward to accommodate the length changes of the drive shaft during vehicle movement.

After all these years of repairing cars, I've often encountered situations where the inner CV joint gets stuck and won't come off, mostly due to rust or accumulated grime. Don't use brute force to pull it out, as this can easily damage the drive shaft or scratch other components. The key is to use proper techniques. I recommend spraying some penetrating oil first, such as common rust removers available on the market, and let it soak for about ten minutes. Then use a rubber mallet to gently tap around the outer edge of the housing. If that doesn't work, use a small steel hammer with a wooden block as a buffer for protective tapping - not too hard to avoid deformation. Patience is crucial. If the rust is severe, you might need to consider using heat tools, but be careful to avoid surrounding wiring to prevent short circuits or fires. After repair, remember to clean thoroughly and apply some anti-seize grease to prevent future sticking. During routine maintenance, regularly inspect the oil seals near the steering knuckle to ensure there are no leaks, which can significantly extend the CV joint's lifespan.

As someone who enjoys DIY car repairs, I've also encountered stuck inner CV joints. Last time it happened, I simply sprayed some regular lubricant to loosen it up first. If you don't have penetrating oil, kitchen cooking oil can work temporarily – though it's not a permanent solution. Then try gently turning it with an adjustable wrench, or wrap an old cloth around the joint and tap it. If the rust is severe, you might need to carefully sand the rust spots with fine sandpaper, but don't overdo it. I've also found that letting the car sit in the garage for a day to allow moisture to evaporate helps. The key is not to rush – take it step by step for safety, since damaging the drivetrain could lead to expensive repairs. To prevent rust, try to park where the car won't get rained on as much and avoid standing water.

I recommend trying some basic methods first. When the inner CV joint is stuck and won't come off, it's often due to rust buildup or being seized. First step is to spray penetrating oil (commonly products like WD-40) and let it soak for a while. Second step is to gently tap the housing using a plastic hammer or a block-padded metal hammer to avoid damage. Third step is to attempt turning it with tools like an adjustable wrench. If it still won't budge, you can apply slight heat to the CV joint body, but keep the temperature moderate. Remember, forcing or yanking it might damage the internal ball bearings or driveshaft, leading to higher repair costs. After simple treatment, check the seal ring to ensure there are no signs of water or oil leakage, and address any abnormalities promptly. These methods usually solve about 80% of similar issues.


