
Parking air conditioning requires a battery of 24V150A to 300A. Below is an introduction to parking air conditioning: Introduction to parking air conditioning: It refers to an onboard air conditioning system used during parking, waiting, or resting. Parking air conditioning is an in-vehicle air regulator that utilizes the DC power from the vehicle's battery to allow continuous operation of the air conditioning while parked or resting. It adjusts and controls parameters such as temperature, humidity, and air velocity inside the vehicle to meet the comfort and cooling needs of truck drivers. Reasons why parking air conditioning is cooling-only: Due to the limitations of the vehicle's battery capacity and the poor user experience of heating in winter, parking air conditioning is primarily cooling-only. It includes a refrigerant delivery system, cooling source equipment, terminal devices, and other auxiliary systems.

I used to drive long-haul trucks and would run the parking air conditioner all night. Regular batteries couldn't handle it, so I specifically installed a 200Ah deep-cycle lead-acid battery to solve the problem. This type of battery has a high depth of discharge, is durable, and affordable—just a few hundred bucks will do the trick. However, make sure to reserve enough power to start the vehicle. It's best to add a voltmeter to monitor the battery level and avoid running out of power unexpectedly. In summer, running the air conditioner consumes about 10 kWh per night, which translates to reserving at least 100Ah capacity in a 12V system. Now, I use a dual-battery system: the original vehicle battery starts the engine, while the parking battery powers only the air conditioner. No more waking up sweaty in the middle of the night!

My RV is equipped with a 1.5-horsepower parking air conditioner, and I chose a 150Ah lithium iron phosphate battery. It's more than twice as expensive as lead-acid batteries, but 20kg lighter and has better deep discharge capability. With the air conditioner's power at 1200W, it consumes 100A per hour, so the 150Ah battery can actually last for 1.5 hours. I recommend getting a 200Ah battery for more reliability, and with a vehicle charger, it can be fully charged in two hours of driving. If the budget is tight, you can also connect two 100Ah lead-acid batteries in parallel, but they're too heavy and take seven to eight hours to charge each time.

A friend who knows about circuits taught me this calculation: the power of the air conditioner divided by the voltage equals the current. For example, an 800W air conditioner running on a 12V battery draws 66A per hour. To use it for 6 hours, you'd need a 400Ah capacity. Lead-acid batteries can only discharge 50%, so you'd actually need to buy an 800Ah one, costing around three to four thousand yuan. Switching to a lithium battery saves a lot of money—a 150Ah capacity is enough for five hours and costs just over two thousand yuan, plus it's more lightweight. Never use a car starter battery directly; it will be ruined after a few deep discharges, and replacing it would be even more costly.

Once I forgot to turn off the parking air conditioner, and the next day the battery was completely drained. It cost me 300 yuan to call for rescue. The electrician said the battery capacity should be at least twice the power consumption of the air conditioner. A regular car with a 60Ah battery can only run the parking air conditioner for half an hour at most, so it's recommended to install a separate 100Ah or larger battery. For lead-acid batteries, choose deep-cycle ones as they are more durable and less prone to swelling. Also, remember to install a low-voltage protector that automatically cuts off power when the charge drops below 20% to protect the battery.


