What kind of engine oil should Ruicheng CC use?
3 Answers
Ruicheng CC should use original factory API/ACEA specification SN grade 5W-30 viscosity engine oil. Below are more details about adding engine oil: I. Refilling steps: 1. Remove the engine oil filler cap and slowly pour oil through the filler hole until it reaches the upper limit on the dipstick. 2. Use an absorbent cloth to wipe any spilled oil and replace the oil filler cap. 3. Start the engine and let it idle for one minute, then turn it off and wait five minutes before checking the dipstick again. II. If you need to change the engine oil, it should be done when the engine is stopped but the oil is still warm. The steps for draining oil are as follows: 1. Remove the oil cap. 2. Place an oil pan under the drain plug. 3. Use a wrench to loosen the drain plug and drain the oil. 4. After the oil is completely drained, reinstall the drain plug and tighten it to the specified torque. 5. Follow the oil refilling steps to complete the new oil addition.
Having run an auto repair shop for years, I've seen plenty of Ruicheng CCs. The official manual recommends 5W-30 as the safest bet, with SL grade or higher being acceptable depending on your budget. Truth is, this car's engine isn't particularly fussy, but I've noticed owners often get lazy—pouring oil in without even checking the dipstick. Remember the standard capacity is 4.3 liters; overfilling makes the engine sluggish and increases fuel consumption. In colder climates, 0W-30 works too for smoother startups. Mineral oil needs changing every 5,000 km, semi-synthetic at 7,000-8,000 km, and while full synthetic can stretch to 10,000 km, don't push it. Most crucially, buy genuine oil—fake stuff can wreck the turbocharger in no time.
My Ruicheng CC has run 80,000 kilometers, and I've tried plenty with engine oil. The manual-recommended 5W-30 is indeed suitable, but switching to 5W-40 for long summer trips gives more peace of mind, especially for older cars. As for brands, there's no need to stick strictly to the original—I alternate between Shell Helix Ultra and Mobil 1, both working fine. Here's a lesser-known tip: If you often deal with stop-and-go traffic, full synthetic oil actually pays off—it lasts up to 12,000 kilometers before degrading, making it cheaper in the long run than mineral oil changed every 5,000 km. But never go for cheap knockoffs—last year I bought counterfeit oil at an auto parts market, and the engine noise roared like a tractor.
