What items need to be replaced during the second car maintenance?

[StFrank]

For the second car maintenance, you need to replace the engine oil, oil filter, air filter, and cabin air filter. The inspection items for the second maintenance also include: tire side slip condition, brake function and pedal clearance, clutch clearance and clutch oil volume, steering wheel clearance, air conditioning system, instrument functions, and more than a dozen other items. The key items are changing the engine oil and replacing the oil filter: 1. Changing the engine oil: You can continue using the same oil as the first maintenance for the second maintenance, or you can opt for a higher-quality oil if desired. 2. Replacing the oil filter: The oil filter's function is to remove harmful impurities from the oil in the oil pan, providing clean oil to moving parts such as the crankshaft, connecting rod, camshaft, turbocharger, and piston rings, thereby lubricating, cooling, and cleaning them, which extends the lifespan of these components.

[JuniperMarie]

I just had my second maintenance not long ago, sharing my actual experience. The basic items at the 4S shop definitely included changing the engine oil and oil filter. My Japanese car used 0W-20 full synthetic oil, which cost over 500 yuan. The air filter wasn’t too dirty when taken out, so the mechanic just blew it with an air gun and didn’t replace it, but the cabin air filter was blackened, so I bought one online and replaced it myself, saving 100 yuan. The most unexpected part was finding a nail in the right rear tire after cleaning out the stones stuck in the treads—it was slowly leaking, and patching it cost 50 yuan. During the chassis inspection, scratches were found on the underbody guard, and the mechanic reminded me to take it easy on rough roads. The whole process took one and a half hours, with labor costs making up the bulk. I recommend checking the maintenance manual before going to avoid being talked into unnecessary cleaning services.

[VanessaRose]

In this industry for years, the core of the second maintenance is the engine oil and three-filter package. Mineral oil must be changed every 5,000 kilometers, while full synthetic can be extended to 8,000. The oil filter must be replaced synchronously with the oil change, and the washer for the oil pan drain plug, costing just two bucks, is best renewed too. The air filter should be replaced based on the environment—owners in dusty northern areas are advised to replace it outright. The cabin air filter affects health; don’t hesitate if it’s moldy or has odors. A commonly overlooked point: the mechanic will use a diagnostic tool to check ECU records and clear the learning values post-first maintenance. Re-tightening chassis bolts is crucial, as vibrations during the new car break-in period may loosen suspension bolts. Finally, remember to claim the complimentary car wash—a premium wash makes it worth it.

[Juliet]

The second maintenance is essentially more about inspection than replacement. Within 5,000 to 10,000 kilometers after the first maintenance, the focus should be on checking the running-in condition. For the mechanical parts, observe whether the engine oil consumption is normal; don't panic if the oil color turns black—the key is the amount of metal debris. All electrical connectors should be unplugged and reconnected to prevent poor contact, especially in areas prone to short circuits during rainy days. Measure the groove depth of the brake discs; brake pad wear during the running-in period of a new car is typically within 3%. If the coolant reservoir level is below the MIN line, it needs to be topped up, as there may be residual air bubbles in the new car's pipelines. I usually bring my own flashlight and inspect the chassis together with the mechanic—early detection of oil seepage from the transmission oil pan is crucial. Remember to test drive before signing off; if the steering pulls to one side, it should be adjusted immediately.

[DelKyle]

Maintenance depends on the vehicle's age and mileage. Even if a car has only driven 3,000 kilometers after one year, the engine oil will emulsify and deteriorate, so it must be replaced. Aggressive drivers should note: during the second maintenance, always check the brake fluid's water content—if it exceeds 3%, it must be replaced, or else white vapor will appear during emergency braking. For vehicles frequently driven on construction sites, the wheels should be removed to inspect the brake calipers, as sand accumulation can cause uneven braking. Those who have modified the electrical system should pay special attention to wire harness wrapping—I once nearly had headlight contact issues due to added ambient lighting. Rubber components require close inspection; if the engine mount rubber cracks exceed 2 millimeters, they must be addressed, or the car will shake like a massage chair. Finally, add a bottle of fuel additive to remove carbon deposits—direct injection engines can have piston tops as black as a pot's bottom.