What is the voltage and ampere rating of a car battery?

2 Answers
LeAdam
07/29/25 1:42am
For gasoline-powered cars, the battery is typically 65AH, while for trucks it's 100AH. Diesel engines usually require 150AH or 200AH batteries. Most vehicles use a 12V battery (single battery), whereas large trucks may have a 24V system (two batteries connected in series). To maintain your car battery, avoid leaving the vehicle parked outdoors for extended periods. If long-term parking is necessary, remove and store the battery to prevent freezing damage. Additional tips: Car engines are harder to start in winter. Each starting attempt should not exceed 5 seconds, with at least 15 seconds between attempts. If the engine fails to start after multiple attempts, check other systems such as the electrical circuit, ignition coil, or fuel system. Avoid continuous starting attempts as this may cause battery damage due to excessive discharge.
Was this review help?
13
5
Share
DominicLee
08/12/25 5:47am
The voltage of a car battery is generally 12 volts, which is like the basic pressure level of the battery. Ampere refers to ampere-hours, abbreviated as Ah, indicating the battery's capacity. From my experience, most small cars use batteries with an Ah range between 45Ah and 70Ah. For example, my family sedan uses a 60Ah battery. This value is influenced by the vehicle size—larger SUVs with bigger engines may require 80Ah or more to support additional electrical equipment. In daily use, the Ah value determines whether the car starts easily after overnight parking; neither too high nor too low is ideal, and choosing one that matches the factory specifications is the safest. I've also learned that regularly checking the voltage with a multimeter can prevent sudden breakdowns, especially during winter when insufficient Ah makes starting difficult. When replacing the battery, don't opt for cheaper, lower-spec options to avoid long-term damage to the electrical system.
Was this review help?
11
3
Share
Expand All
More Forum Discussions

Can Flood-Damaged Vehicles Be Applied for Scrapping?

Flood-damaged vehicles can be applied for scrapping. To scrap a vehicle, the owner needs to directly visit the municipal motor vehicle administration department for processing. The vehicle owner must bring their identity proof, vehicle registration certificate, vehicle license, and license plate to the vehicle dismantling plant's business department to fill out the "Application Form for Vehicle Suspension, Resumption/De-registration" or wait for notification at the license management counter for fee payment. Vehicles with flood levels that have not reached the chassis are not considered flood-damaged. Normal driving through water often involves depths of several tens of centimeters, and water contact with the chassis is not a major issue—it only causes rust in the corners of the chassis and on the brake discs. For such cases, simply washing the car promptly, especially giving the chassis a thorough rinse, is sufficient. Since rainwater is slightly acidic, it can corrode the rubber components of the chassis suspension structure. After washing, just open the car doors and use high heat to dry out the moisture. Vehicles with flood levels exceeding the chassis (reaching the center point of the wheel hub cover) are considered flood-damaged. The chassis has multiple sets of wiring harnesses and connectors on both sides of the sills. Flooding can damage core components, and the soundproofing mats inside the car cannot be reused after being soaked, as they will breed bacteria and produce severe odors even after drying. However, vehicles with this level of water damage are not classified as total losses by insurance companies because the cost of repairs and part replacements is not high—repair costs are significantly lower than scrapping costs. Vehicles with flood levels reaching the dashboard are considered total-loss flood-damaged vehicles. The soundproofing mats and seats inside the car need to be replaced, and all interior components must be disassembled and cleaned. The fuse box inside the car will inevitably short-circuit due to water ingress, as its vertical height is roughly level with the seat cushions, and electronic devices will also be damaged. The most severe damage occurs inside the engine compartment—the ECU circuit board will short-circuit and be damaged, and the fuse box inside the car will also be flooded. Additionally, the openings for various fluids (such as oil) will be contaminated with water and require complete replacement. Therefore, in such cases, it is generally advisable to apply for scrapping directly.
12
3
Share

What Does the Jerking Sensation in an Automatic Transmission Feel Like?

Automatic transmission jerking can be either occasional or occur at fixed intervals, akin to being kicked while walking. All automatic transmissions, except for continuously variable transmissions (CVT), exhibit jerking sensations to varying degrees, with the most severe cases found in four-speed transmissions due to fewer gears resulting in more pronounced jerking. Automatic and manual transmissions share a common characteristic: there is a buffering process during gear shifts involving the disengagement, engagement, and synchronization of transmission gears. The smoother this process, the less noticeable the jerking sensation. At low speeds or idle, when the engine RPM and vehicle speed just meet the shifting requirements, the jerking sensation during gear shifts can be quite strong. After driving for a while, when the RPM and speed meet or even exceed the shifting standards, the jerking sensation diminishes significantly. With technological advancements, transmissions now have more gears, evolving from the initial four-speed to today's nine-speed transmissions. The more gears there are, the smaller the RPM ratio between each gear, thereby reducing the jerking sensation during shifts. The jerking sensation in automatic transmissions often results from drivers not developing good driving habits, such as continuously pressing the accelerator, causing abrupt jumps during gear shifts due to differing gear ratios. This is similar to suddenly releasing the clutch in a manual transmission. A good driving habit is to quickly release the accelerator when you sense the transmission is about to shift, which can mitigate the jerking sensation. However, continuously variable transmissions do not produce this sensation.
10
1
Share

What Causes the Engine Malfunction Light to Flash Continuously?

When the engine malfunction light flashes, it indicates a serious engine issue that requires immediate inspection. Here are 7 potential causes: Sensor Failure: This includes sensors such as coolant temperature, crankshaft position, air flow, intake temperature, and oxygen sensors. If these sensors are damaged, have poor connections, or signal interruptions, the vehicle's ECU cannot accurately obtain engine data, triggering the malfunction light. Fuel/Oil Quality Issues: Using fuel or oil that does not meet manufacturer specifications may cause engine wear, leading to the malfunction light activation. Poor Combustion of Air-Fuel Mixture: Incomplete combustion can result in engine carbon buildup or knocking. When detected by the oxygen sensor and reported to the ECU, the malfunction light will illuminate as a warning. Causes include faulty spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump issues, or clogged fuel lines. Turbocharger Problems: Issues with the intake boost system or turbocharger can trigger the engine light. Common symptoms of turbocharger failure include oil leaks, excessive oil consumption, reduced power, metallic noises, or blue/black smoke from the exhaust. Intake System Issues: Clogged engine intake passages can cause the malfunction light to illuminate, often due to a dirty or unmaintained air filter. Exhaust System Problems: Exhaust-related faults such as rear oxygen sensor failure, catalytic converter issues, or exhaust camshaft and bearing wear can activate the light. The catalytic converter is particularly vulnerable to leaded gasoline, improper lubricant additives, physical damage, or fuel system malfunctions. Anti-Theft System Malfunction: If the vehicle's electronic anti-theft system fails or doesn't properly communicate with the engine control unit, it may prevent normal engine operation and trigger the warning light. Generally, engine warning lights have four patterns: steady yellow, flashing yellow, steady red, and flashing red. The severity increases from steady to flashing and from yellow to red, with flashing red being most critical. When the engine light appears, follow these steps: First check if the engine is running normally. If there's noticeable vibration, black smoke, or other abnormalities - especially with a red light - do not restart the engine. If the engine can operate, turn it off for 5-10 minutes. Without pressing the brake (or clutch for manual transmissions), activate the ignition to ON position to initiate system self-diagnosis. After 5-10 seconds, check if the warning light disappears. If the light persists, visit a service center immediately. Technicians can use diagnostic tools to retrieve trouble codes and perform targeted repairs.
11
3
Share

What Causes the Sudden Illumination of the Engine Malfunction Light?

The engine malfunction light may illuminate due to the following 7 main reasons: Sensor Failure: This includes sensors such as coolant temperature, crankshaft position, air flow, intake temperature, and oxygen sensors. When these sensors are damaged, have poor contact, or experience signal interruption, the vehicle's ECU cannot accurately obtain engine data, triggering the malfunction light. Fuel Quality Issues: Failure to use the fuel and engine oil specified by the manufacturer may lead to engine wear, causing the malfunction light to illuminate. Poor Combustion of Air-Fuel Mixture: Poor combustion can result in engine carbon buildup or knocking. When detected by the oxygen sensor and reported to the ECU, the malfunction light will illuminate as a warning. Issues such as spark plug failure, ignition coil failure, fuel pump failure, or fuel line blockage can cause poor combustion. Turbocharging Problems: The intake boost pipeline or turbocharger can also trigger the engine malfunction light. The most common issue is turbocharger damage, accompanied by symptoms like oil leaks, excessive oil consumption, reduced power, metallic noises, or blue/black smoke from the exhaust. Intake Problems: If the vehicle's intake system malfunctions, it may cause engine pipeline blockages, potentially leading to the illumination of the malfunction light. A dirty or uncleaned air filter can also cause intake issues. Exhaust Problems: Exhaust system failures can also trigger the malfunction light. Causes include rear oxygen sensor failure, catalytic converter issues, exhaust camshaft or bearing failure, with the catalytic converter being the most common culprit. Using leaded gasoline, lead- or silicon-based lubricant additives, physical damage to the catalytic converter, or fuel system failures can easily cause catalytic converter problems. Anti-Theft System Malfunction: If the vehicle's electronic anti-theft system fails or the anti-theft controller does not match the engine ECU, the anti-theft system may prevent the engine from operating normally, accompanied by the illumination of the malfunction light. If the engine malfunction light illuminates, follow these steps: First, check if the engine is running normally, such as whether there is shaking, black smoke, etc. If so, avoid restarting the engine. Note: Do not restart the engine if the red warning light is on. If the engine can start, turn it off and wait 5-10 minutes. Without pressing the brake, press the start button once or turn the key halfway to the 'ON' position (without pressing the clutch). The vehicle will perform a self-check after powering on. Wait 5-10 seconds to see if the malfunction light turns off. If the light remains on, visit a service center as soon as possible. Technicians can use a portable diagnostic tool to read the trouble codes, identify the issue, and perform targeted repairs.
18
5
Share

Why is the ABS light on in a sedan?

When the ABS light is displayed on a car, it indicates a malfunction in the vehicle's anti-lock braking system. If the wheels lock up during emergency braking, the vehicle may lose control and skid, making it impossible for the driver to decelerate or adjust the vehicle's trajectory, posing significant safety hazards. There are several states in which the ABS light may illuminate, each with different causes and solutions: State 1: ABS warning light stays on continuously (most common). Cause 1: The ABS wheel speed sensor's sensing area is covered by dirt, mud, or other contaminants, affecting the sensor's ability to detect the corresponding speed signal. This prevents the ABS computer from determining the vehicle speed and the wheel slip rate, thus failing to issue appropriate commands to regulate braking. Solution: Clean the dirt from the wheel speed sensor and adjust the gap between the sensor and the signal ring to restore normal function. Cause 2: Loose connections in the system wiring or poor contact in the ABS relay lead to signal issues, causing system failure. Solution: Check the wiring connections and reconnect any loose parts. State 2: ABS warning light intermittently illuminates and turns off when accelerating. Cause: When multiple vehicle electrical components are in use, the battery voltage drops below 10.5V. As the engine speed increases, the voltage rises, and the ABS light turns off. This may also occur if the ABS system's power supply voltage is too low due to poor terminal contact or grounding issues. Solution: Check the battery's specific gravity, inspect the charging system, and examine the power supply (e.g., voltage relay or poor power contact). State 3: ABS warning light stays on after engine start and only turns off when the engine is turned off (IGFF). Cause: Poor grounding contact in the ABS hydraulic valve body, faulty wiring connections in the ABS hydraulic valve body, or ABS computer malfunction. Solution: Loosen and retighten the grounding screw on the hydraulic valve body, cleaning the contact surface if necessary. Check for enlarged gaps in the connectors and replace the ABS or ABS/ASR computer if needed. State 4: ABS warning light illuminates during high-speed driving. Cause: At high speeds, the ABS computer detects a significant discrepancy between the rear and front wheel speed signals, or incorrect tire or wheel rim specifications. Solution: Refer to the vehicle's tire and wheel rim specifications, typically found on the label near the fuel tank cap. State 5: ABS warning light intermittently illuminates. Cause: Improper adjustment of the brake light switch or poor internal contact in the brake light. Solution: With the engine running, press the brake pedal, push the brake switch linkage down fully with your fingers, then release the brake pedal to complete the self-setting position. Replace the brake light switch if necessary.
20
4
Share

Is MG a Domestic Car Brand?

MG is a domestic car brand, and its models include: MG6, MG5, MG ZS, MG HS, MG Pilot, etc. Taking the MG6 as an example, it belongs to the compact car category. The body dimensions are: length 4704mm, width 1848mm, height 1466mm, with a wheelbase of 2715mm and a fuel tank capacity of 50 liters. The MG6 is equipped with a 1.5T turbocharged engine, delivering a maximum power of 133kW at 5600rpm and a maximum torque of 285Nm between 1500 to 4000rpm.
18
5
Share
Cookie
Cookie Settings
© 2025 Servanan International Pte. Ltd.