What is the temperature range for film baking?
2 Answers
According to the film performance and material, adjust the temperature of the heat gun, which is generally controlled between 280°C and 350°C. If the temperature is too high, for films with high metal content, it is easy to cause a wire phenomenon due to metal overlap. When baking the film, pay attention to the sequence, starting from the middle and then moving to both sides. The main reason for baking the film is that during the production of the anti-explosion film, the direction of electroplating is fixed, so when installing and shaping the film, the shrinkage direction of the film is fixed. Only by smoothing the bubbles along the shrinkage direction can wrinkles be avoided, which leads to horizontal or vertical film baking. Here is the relevant introduction: 1. Narrow on both sides: Generally, car glass is longer on the top and bottom sides and narrower on the left and right sides. Therefore, when cutting horizontally, the bubbles are evenly distributed on the left and right sides, resulting in longer bubbles, which is not conducive to construction and increases difficulty. 2. Dry baking technology: However, if you master the dry baking technology or other special techniques, the front windshield can be cut horizontally. This is mainly because most front windshields on the market have a width exceeding 75CM, and the leftover parts from vertical cutting are often wasted due to long-term improper storage, inability to find suitable car models, or other reasons. Especially for high-end films, the cost of waste is significant, so horizontal cutting can better save material costs.
I often encounter the temperature range for film baking, as I've accumulated quite a bit of experience from DIY window tinting. Generally, maintaining the temperature between 120 to 150 degrees Celsius is optimal. Too low, and the film won't adhere properly; too high, and it risks burning or bubbling. I recall last time using an infrared thermometer to monitor, keeping the heat gun moving evenly at around 130 degrees, with no single spot heated for more than 5 seconds. The type of film makes a big difference—metal films can withstand over 150 degrees, while ceramic films are best started at 120 degrees. Environmental factors also play a role; in summer, when the glass is already hot from direct sunlight, lowering the temperature to 110 degrees is safer. In winter, the drier conditions allow for slightly higher temperatures, up to 140 degrees, to speed up shrinking. Patience is key—overheating can damage both the film and the window coating, leading to too many bubbles and wasted effort. I recommend beginners start with a corner to get a feel for it before tackling the entire glass.
