What is the solution for the Roewe 550 cylinder gasket not holding?
2 Answers
The solution for the Roewe 550 cylinder gasket not holding: 1. When removing the cylinder head bolts, it is necessary to wait until the engine is completely cooled down before proceeding. During removal, follow the principle of loosening evenly from both sides towards the center diagonally; 2. The selected cylinder gasket must meet the requirements and be a reliable original factory accessory, paying attention to its installation direction during installation. The cylinder gasket is an important gasket in automobiles, whose function is to ensure the sealing between the cylinder block and the cylinder head joint surface, preventing gas, water, and oil leakage. The Roewe 550 is a compact car under the SAIC Group. Taking the 2014 Roewe 550S 1.8L manual intelligent selection version as an example, its power system is equipped with a 1.8L inline four-cylinder naturally aspirated engine, with the engine body made of aluminum alloy structure, a maximum power of 98kW, a maximum torque of 170Nm, and matched with a 5-speed manual transmission.
I also encountered the problem of unstable cylinder gasket installation when repairing the Roewe 550 before. The main issues were unclean surfaces or screws not being tightened properly. You need to thoroughly clean the surfaces of the engine cylinder head and block first, removing all old gasket residue and oil stains. If there are scratches, carefully smooth them out with fine sandpaper. Then replace it with a brand-new original cylinder gasket—don’t try to save money by reusing the old one. Apply high-temperature-resistant sealant evenly, but don’t apply too thick a layer. Tighten the screws in the correct sequence: first tighten each screw to half the required torque, then turn a few times before gradually increasing the torque to the specified value in several steps. Use a torque wrench to measure—the manual usually has the standard values. After everything is assembled, start the engine and let the car warm up for a while, then check for any signs of leakage at the coolant and oil interfaces. If it still leaks, you’ll need to check if the cylinder block is deformed—it may require factory machining. Don’t rush this step; if it’s not done properly, engine overheating and failure while driving will be much worse. My lesson is that slow and steady wins the race—spending an extra half-hour checking can save you from a major overhaul.
