What is the solution for the Audi A5 trunk not opening?
3 Answers
Audi A5 trunk not opening solution: 1. Remove the trunk trim panel; 2. Remove the screws and clips on the back of the rear tailgate body; 3. Remove the two central fixing screws and clips; 4. After releasing the fixing method of the rear tailgate switch trim panel, you can see that the switch core body is disconnected. The Audi A5 is a mid-size car with a body length, width, and height of 4760mm, 1843mm, and 1342mm respectively, and a wheelbase of 2831mm. In terms of power, the Audi A5 is equipped with a 2.0T turbocharged engine with a maximum power of 190 horsepower, matched with a 7-speed Stronic dual-clutch transmission.
When I first drove my A5, I also had the embarrassing experience of the trunk refusing to open. That time, it was because the motor of the trunk latch was a bit stuck, and the lock tongue was rusted, causing it to jam. Handling it yourself isn’t too difficult: first, locate the plastic cover on the left inner wall of the trunk, pry it open with your car key, and you’ll see the emergency release cord. Pull the cord hard to manually unlock it, then remove the lock tongue and spray some WD-40 lubricant. Open and close the trunk a few times, and it should move smoothly. If it’s an electrical issue, it’s more troublesome—like if the wiring harness for the control button got crushed and broken. You’d need to remove the interior trim panel to check the wiring. Last time, my friend’s car had a short circuit because the wiring wasn’t properly insulated during a sound system upgrade, which blew the trunk’s 10A fuse. Replacing the fuse only cost twenty bucks. If all else fails, you’ll have to visit the dealership to read the fault codes with their diagnostic tool, especially since Audi’s electronic systems are quite complex. Remember to wear gloves when working on it to avoid getting cut by sharp trim edges.
As someone who frequently deals with German cars, I'm accustomed to first determining whether it's an electronic or mechanical issue. For electronic problems, try replacing the remote key battery first—sometimes weak power prevents signal transmission. Then check the in-car fuse box (located near the left knee of the driver's seat), where fuse F36 specifically controls trunk unlocking. If these aren't the issue, inspect whether the trunk switch contacts are oxidized—this task requires removing interior panels. For mechanical issues, the main culprit is often a stuck lock mechanism. Use a T20 screwdriver to remove the latch cover plate, clear any sand or debris, and apply lubricant. Hinge deformation is another common cause; improper closure can trigger the anti-theft lock. Here's a lesser-known emergency unlocking trick: fold down the rear seats, crawl inside, and look for an orange pull ring near the trunk dome light. Insert the key into the slot and turn it 90 degrees counterclockwise to unlock. For diagnostics, using a multimeter to check circuit continuity is the most reliable method—don't trust the 'tapping fix' advice found online.
