
The recommended car coverage surpasses minimum state requirements by carrying higher liability limits—typically 100/300/100—and adding comprehensive, collision, and uninsured motorist protection. This balances robust financial protection with affordability for most drivers. State minimums are often insufficient, leaving you personally liable for costs exceeding your policy limits in a serious accident.
While state laws set the bare minimum, these levels (e.g., 25/50/25 in many states) provide inadequate real-world protection. Industry experts and financial advisors consistently recommend carrying liability coverage of at least $100,000 per person for bodily injury, $300,000 per accident, and $100,000 for property damage (often called 100/300/100). This is considered a prudent baseline for asset protection.
For a clearer picture, here’s a comparison of typical minimums versus recommended coverage:
| Coverage Type | Typical State Minimum | Recommended Coverage |
|---|---|---|
| Bodily Injury Liability (Per Person) | $25,000 | $100,000 |
| Bodily Injury Liability (Per Accident) | $50,000 | $300,000 |
| Property Damage Liability (Per Accident) | $25,000 | $100,000 |
Beyond liability, you should strongly consider:
Your ideal coverage mix depends on personal factors. If you have significant assets (home, savings), higher liability limits like 250/500/100 are wise to shield them from lawsuits. For a newer or financed car, comprehensive and collision are usually required by the lender. For an older car with low market value, you might drop these to save on premiums, as the payout may not justify the cost.
Regularly review your policy with life changes—buying a home, having a child, or a significant change in income—as your risk profile and needed protection level evolve.

Here’s my straightforward setup from years of driving. I carry liability at 100/300/100—it didn’t cost much more than the state minimum but gives me real peace of mind. I also have uninsured motorist coverage. My car is paid off and ten years old, so I skipped comprehensive and collision. The potential repair costs just aren’t worth the yearly premium for me anymore. I increase my deductible to keep costs down, making sure I have that cash set aside just in case.

In my work handling , I’ve seen the devastating gap between state minimums and actual accident costs. A single serious injury can easily exceed $50,000 in medical bills. When your policy maxes out, you’re responsible for the rest. I always tell people to view insurance as asset protection. The recommended 100/300/100 liability is a much safer starting point. Also, never waive uninsured motorist coverage. You’d be surprised how many drivers have no insurance at all, and this coverage is your only recourse for your own medical bills in that scenario.

Think of as a financial safety net. The goal is to transfer risks you can’t afford to bear. State minimums are a legal checkbox, not a financially sound plan. I advise clients to carry liability limits that match or exceed their net worth. For most, that’s the 100/300/100 benchmark. If you have a newer car, comprehensive and collision protect your investment. For an older vehicle, analyze its market value versus the annual premium plus deductible; often, it makes sense to self-insure that risk. It’s about balancing premium costs with potential financial exposure.

As a new driver, I was confused about what to get. My agent explained it like this: Liability is for the other person’s car and medical bills if I cause a crash, and more is better. I went with the 100/300/100 recommendation. Since my car is new, I got comprehensive and collision with a $500 deductible. The most helpful tip was adding uninsured motorist coverage—it wasn’t expensive and covers me if someone with no hits me. I review it every year to make sure it still fits, especially if my car’s value drops. Starting with solid coverage feels responsible.


