
The reason why a car cannot brake effectively may be due to a malfunction in the vehicle's braking system components, which causes the braking system to fail. It could also be caused by excessive wear of the brake pads or brake discs, leading to an extended braking distance. Rust on car brake discs is a normal phenomenon. Below are detailed explanations about it: 1. Slight rust: Slight rust often occurs, such as after the car is exposed to rain overnight or when it remains wet after washing. In such cases, continuous braking while driving can help remove the rust, as the friction between the brake disc and brake caliper during braking will wear away the rust over multiple stops. 2. Severe rust: If the brake disc has severe rust, a thick layer of rust has formed on the entire surface of the brake disc. Stubborn rust can also accelerate the wear of brake pads, so it is necessary to take the car to a repair shop to have the brake discs polished.

Last month, my Baojun 510 also experienced soft brake issues, which turned out to be caused by excessive moisture content in the brake fluid. This is a common problem with older cars, especially in the humid climate of southern regions. When brake fluid absorbs moisture, its boiling point decreases, leading to bubble formation during hard braking, which makes the pedal feel soft. The mechanic also checked the brake pads and found that the original pads had accumulated a lot of dust over time, and the caliper guide pins were prone to rusting, causing poor retraction. The mechanic mentioned that a common issue with the rear drum brakes on this model is uneven wear on the brake shoes and suggested adjusting the brake clearance during the next maintenance. After switching to DOT 4 brake fluid and ceramic brake pads, I immediately noticed a significant improvement in braking power during hard stops.

Last time driving the 510 in the rain, I almost rear-ended someone. Hard braking felt like stepping on cotton. Inspection revealed uneven wear on the front brake discs - the mechanic measured nearly 1mm thickness difference with calipers. The master cylinder oil seal also had minor leakage, a common issue with hydraulic-assisted vehicles. Surprisingly, we found the rear brake line was rubbed through by the chassis rubber guard, allowing air to slowly seep in. Remember to have the brake vacuum booster's check valve inspected during maintenance - aging rubber parts can leak. Recommend replacing the entire brake line set with metal hoses, since safety comes first.

My friend's 510 has steering wheel shaking issues during emergency braking. Disassembly inspection revealed excessive axial clearance in the front wheel bearings and wheel disc runout. The contact surfaces of the brake discs and pads have developed hardened layers forming friction hot spots, causing the entire vehicle to shake during emergency braking above 80 km/h. The discs need resurfacing, but insufficient thickness means replacement is necessary. Also check the lower arm bushings - cracking can worsen brake dive. Mechanical issues are more dangerous, so it's recommended to replace both the bearings and brake discs simultaneously. The cost is over 2,000 yuan but will provide a permanent solution.

Focus on checking the brake booster system! Previously encountered a ruptured vacuum hose that made the brake pedal as hard as a rock. Baojun's rubber hose in the high-temperature engine compartment area is prone to aging. Beginners should note that after the engine stalls, the brake can only be pressed twice—the third press won't budge, which is normal. If you feel reduced braking efficiency after continuous braking on a long downhill, it might be due to overheated brake discs causing thermal fade. Immediately shift to a lower gear to use engine braking, find a safe area to stop and cool down, and never pour water to cool it!


