What is the reason for the Roewe 350 clutch pedal not returning after being pressed down?

[VanDante]

Clutch pedal not returning is most likely due to a malfunction in the clutch system. Common failure points include: a faulty release bearing in the clutch system, a malfunctioning pressure plate in the clutch system, the clutch disc being worn to its limit, or poor return of the clutch pedal in the clutch system. If the clutch does not spring back after being pressed down, immediately stop and inspect the following areas: Area 1: Faulty return spring. Check if the return spring of the clutch pedal is in good condition. If there is an issue with the spring, it is recommended to replace it promptly. Area 2: Air in the hydraulic line or wear in the working cylinder can cause the pedal not to return. Regularly replace the transmission fluid, bleed the air from the system, and replace any worn components. Area 3: Insufficient return force of the clutch pedal spring. Over time, the spring's elasticity may weaken. It should be inspected every few years, and replaced immediately if any defects are found. Area 4: Blockage in the return oil hole of the clutch master cylinder. Lack of oil may only cause poor clutch disengagement or no disengagement, but it is unlikely to prevent the pedal from springing back. Check the clutch pedal travel and the pivot pin.

[Barros]

I've encountered many issues with clutch pedals not returning, especially common in older vehicles. The most frequent cause is aging or damaged seals in the clutch master cylinder, leading to hydraulic fluid leakage and insufficient pressure, which prevents the return spring from properly pushing the pedal back. Slave cylinder sticking is another major factor—if the piston gets jammed by debris, the pedal will stick and not return. Low hydraulic fluid level is also a possibility; checking the reservoir level is easy—if it's low, it indicates a leak, requiring fluid top-up and bleeding. Additionally, mechanical problems with the pedal itself, such as a fatigued or broken spring or corroded linkage, can hinder its return. I recommend first checking the fluid level yourself; if it's normal, it's best to visit a professional shop for inspection to avoid gear-shifting difficulties while driving, which could compromise safety.

[Adrian]

My car also had an issue where the clutch pedal wouldn't return after being pressed, making gear shifting difficult and annoying. I suspect it was mostly due to a faulty slave cylinder—the piston inside got stuck, preventing pressure release, or air bubbles entered the hydraulic system, causing pedal lag. Another possible reason was a leaking master cylinder seal, which reduced system pressure and left the pedal weak. I tried checking the reservoir and adding new fluid myself, which helped temporarily, but the problem returned. Eventually, I had to replace the parts at the repair shop. Regular clutch system maintenance is crucial, like periodically checking fluid levels and ensuring the pedal moves smoothly.

[ONorah]

The root cause of a non-functional clutch pedal lies in hydraulic circuit failure. Possible reasons include worn master cylinder seals causing oil leaks and insufficient pressure, a stuck slave cylinder piston failing to return, or minor leakage points in the pipelines. Mechanical components such as a broken return spring or jammed linkage mechanism can also lead to this issue. Inspection steps involve checking the fluid level in the reservoir to determine if DOT4 brake fluid needs to be added, and bleeding the system to remove air bubbles. For severe cases, replacing worn components is necessary to ensure normal operation and safe driving.