What is the reason for the parking light malfunction in the Volvo S60L?
3 Answers
The reason is either a damaged brake light or a malfunction in the vehicle's computer. Below are the detailed introductions of the S60L: 1. Power: The Volvo S60L is equipped with a 2.0L naturally aspirated engine with a maximum power of 154 horsepower. The transmission system is matched with a CVT continuously variable transmission. 2. Suspension configuration: In terms of chassis suspension, the Volvo S60L adopts a front MacPherson independent suspension and a rear multi-link independent suspension. 3. Appearance: The large area of chrome decoration paired with sharp headlights gives it a very sporty feel. The side of the body features sharp double waistline designs, combined with a low body, making it look very dynamic and stylish. The rear part of the car has a very layered design.
As an auto mechanic, I've encountered many Volvo S60L owners reporting parking light failures. Common causes include burnt-out bulbs - particularly the halogen lamps used in this model which have limited lifespan and may develop broken filaments over time. Blown fuses are also frequent, such as the 15A fuse in the parking light circuit that may fail due to short circuits or overloads. Wiring deterioration causing poor contacts is another issue, where moisture corrosion damages connectors. When relays or the Body Control Module (BCM) malfunction, lights may also fail - not uncommon in the electronically complex S60L. I recommend owners first check the fuse box location (typically under the driver's seat) and try replacing the fuse. If that doesn't work, test ground connections securely, or use a multimeter to check circuit continuity if experienced. Remember not to delay repairs - minor faults can lead to major issues. Driving to a professional shop for diagnosis is safer given the complex electronic systems - avoid unauthorized disassembly.
I was really screwed by the parking lights of my Volvo S60L this time. Last night when I parked, they mysteriously stopped working. At first, I thought it was just a burnt-out bulb, so I spent 20 bucks on a new one, but the problem persisted. After some research, I realized the issue wasn't just the bulb: a blown fuse is one of the main culprits—when that little 15-amp thing melts, the lights go on strike. Wiring problems are also common, like loose or corroded connectors that block the current. There's also relay failure, and the mechanic mentioned that older models often have grounding issues. I tinkered with it for hours but couldn't fix it. Finally, I took it to the dealership, where they diagnosed it as a bad connection in the BCM module's plug. It cost me a few hundred bucks to get it fixed. A word of advice: have your lighting system checked during regular maintenance, so you don't end up like me, trying to save a few bucks but losing big.
