
Oil light coming on and then turning off when accelerating may be due to incorrect oil viscosity. Below is an introduction to engine oil knowledge: 1. Introduction: Engine oil, also known as engine lubricant, has a density of approximately 0.91kg×10 cubic. It serves functions such as lubrication and friction reduction, auxiliary cooling, sealing and leak prevention, rust and corrosion protection, and shock absorption. It is often referred to as the 'blood' of a car. Engine oil consists of base oil and additives. The base oil is the main component of lubricating oil, determining its fundamental properties, while additives compensate for and improve the shortcomings of the base oil, providing certain new properties, making them an important part of lubricating oil. 2. Requirements: As a type of machinery, engines have common requirements for lubricating oil similar to general machinery, such as appropriate viscosity, certain anti-oxidation, anti-wear, anti-corrosion, and viscosity-temperature performance requirements. However, engines are also a special type of machinery, and their requirements for lubricating oil have unique aspects.

I have quite some experience with this oil pressure light coming on at idle but going off when accelerating. Most likely, it's due to low oil level. At idle, the oil pump's suction power is weaker, and when oil drops below a certain level, it can't draw enough, causing low oil pressure that triggers the warning light. When you step on the gas, higher RPM increases oil flow, restoring pressure and turning off the light. Another possibility is the oil being too thin, which happens more often in cold weather. Last time my car showed this symptom, checking the dipstick revealed it was nearly a liter below the minimum mark - adding half a liter immediately improved the situation. If oil level is normal, perhaps the oil filter is clogged affecting flow rate, or the oil pump has some wear. This isn't a minor issue - I recommend stopping immediately to check the dipstick and top up oil, otherwise poor engine lubrication could lead to cylinder scoring. If changing the oil filter solves it, that would be the most cost-effective fix.

When checking this type of fault myself, I first look at the dipstick. If the oil level is below the minimum mark, the oil pump struggles to draw oil at idle, triggering the warning light, which naturally goes off when the pressure builds up at higher RPMs. If the oil level is normal, I suspect the oil filter might be dirty and partially clogged—oil can't flow through at low speeds, but the blockage gets cleared at higher speeds. I remember one time my car had this issue, and replacing the filter for about a hundred bucks fixed it immediately. Otherwise, it could be wear on the oil pump blades, causing insufficient pressure at low RPMs. The worst-case scenario is internal engine aging, like excessive bearing clearance causing oil leaks, which is expensive to fix. Now, I've developed the habit of checking the oil level after warming up the car. If the light flashes, I always pull over to check first. Never force it—repairing the engine once costs enough for years of fuel.

The oil pressure light coming on at idle and going off when accelerating is basically a warning of insufficient oil pressure. The most common causes are either too little oil or a weak oil pump at low RPMs, triggering the sensor to illuminate the light when pressure drops below threshold. The light extinguishes once engine speed increases and oil pressure normalizes. If these two factors check out, focus on inspecting whether the oil filter is clogged and restricting oil flow. Some older vehicles may also experience this due to severely worn engine bearings causing excessive oil leakage at idle, preventing pressure buildup. This type of fault can easily escalate – I've seen cases where delayed repairs led to cylinder wall damage and costly overhauls. Upon noticing this symptom, immediately check the dipstick; top up if low on oil, otherwise seek professional diagnosis at a workshop.


