What is the reason for the heater not being hot after adding antifreeze?

[DelMadeline]

After adding antifreeze, the heater not being hot may be due to a clogged radiator. Another possibility is that the cylinder head gasket has blown, causing the antifreeze to deteriorate. It is recommended to go to a 4S shop for maintenance and inspection. The car air conditioning refers to the air conditioning device installed in the car, which can cool, heat, ventilate, and purify the air inside the compartment, providing a comfortable environment for passengers, reducing the driver's fatigue, and improving driving safety. The full name of antifreeze is antifreeze coolant, meaning it is a coolant with antifreeze function. It can prevent the coolant from freezing and cracking the radiator or damaging the engine cylinder block or head when the car is parked in cold winter.

[WillowAnn]

After my last coolant change, I also encountered the issue of the heater not blowing warm air. It took me quite a while to figure out the cause. The most critical problem was not properly bleeding the air out during the coolant replacement - hot air got trapped in the pipes and couldn't circulate. The heater hoses felt scalding hot, but the vents just blew cold air. Also, if the thermostat isn't working properly, it can get stuck in the small circulation mode, preventing the coolant temperature from rising at all. A clogged heater core is equally problematic - sediment buildup blocks the flow like clogged blood vessels. As a last resort, check the water pump impeller; if it's broken, you're looking at a complete repair that can easily cost over a thousand at repair shops these days. I'd recommend first trying the proper bleeding procedure - let the engine idle for 20 minutes while repeatedly opening the bleed screw to release air.

[DeAlan]

As a mechanic who deals with such issues daily, if the heater turns cold right after topping up the coolant, it's usually due to air trapped in the cooling system, especially in the heater core which sits at a high point and is most prone to air pockets. Improper coolant replacement procedures or air leaks in the hoses can create vapor locks, preventing hot coolant circulation. Another possibility is chemical reactions between old and new coolant causing crystallization that blocks passages. A thermostat stuck in the radiator's main circulation loop will cause lower engine coolant temperatures. I recommend first checking if the coolant level fluctuates normally. After starting the engine, feel the temperature difference between the upper and lower hoses—if the hoses are scalding hot but the heater core remains cold, there's an 80% chance the system needs to be bled. It's best to return to the repair shop for professional bleeding tools and a thorough system check.

[ChaseFitz]

Just added antifreeze but the AC blows cold air? Most likely the coolant isn't circulating to the heater core. Three common causes: First, air got trapped during refill creating vapor lock, drastically reducing heat transfer efficiency; Second, the thermostat fails to open the main circulation channel, preventing engine temperature from rising; Third, the heater core is clogged, especially in older vehicles with severe rust buildup. DIY diagnosis is simple: After driving for 10 minutes, feel the heater hoses under the dashboard - if there's significant temperature difference between the two pipes, it's probably an airlock issue. The solution is to re-bleed the system, remember to keep the engine running at 2000 RPM during the procedure. Don't rush to replace parts - bleeding usually solves the problem.

[SebastianRose]

I know exactly how you feel. Last winter after changing the antifreeze, it was so cold I had to drive wearing gloves. The key issue lies in the coolant circulation - the heater core sits at the highest point where air bubbles tend to accumulate. Improper filling methods can introduce excessive air bubbles, trapping hot coolant in the engine block. Also pay attention to antifreeze quality - mixing cheap brands often causes flocculent precipitation that clogs the heater core's narrow passages first. Thermostat failure is another classic issue - when the valve fails to open, the temperature gauge needle won't even reach the midpoint. I recommend returning to the shop for vacuum-assisted refilling. That equipment can completely remove air pockets while flushing the entire cooling system, working far more effectively than conventional bleeder valves.