
The reason for the engine malfunction light coming on and then turning off is that the internal temperature of the engine is low, and the gasoline atomization is poor. The engine malfunction light indicates the following: 1. It comes on and then turns off automatically: normal situation; 2. It stays on: indicates a mechanical fault in the vehicle's engine, requiring repair. Solutions for the engine malfunction light coming on: 1. Replace the oxygen sensor; 2. Replace the three-way catalytic converter; 3. Tighten or replace the fuel tank cap; 4. Replace the thermostat; 5. Replace the ignition coil; 6. Replace the air flow sensor; 7. Perform regular maintenance according to the time cycle specified in the vehicle maintenance card.

Last time during maintenance, the technician mentioned this phenomenon to me. The engine warning light occasionally comes on and then goes off, most likely due to fuel quality issues. I remember the light came on right after I filled up with cheap gas, but it stopped appearing after I switched back to regular gas stations. It's like an upset stomach - the computer detects abnormal combustion and triggers an alert. But the computer is quite smart; as long as the next few tanks of fuel are fine, it will quietly cancel the fault code. Another common cause is sensor interference from moisture, just like how a phone acts up when wet but works again after drying. Of course, if the light keeps flashing repeatedly accompanied by noticeable shaking, it's best to get the spark plugs or fuel injectors checked at the shop - safety comes first.

It all comes down to how the vehicle's onboard computer operates. A lit malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) means the system has detected abnormal parameters, while it turns off when the fault doesn't recur over multiple driving cycles. I've experienced this several times: once when willow catkins caused unstable readings from the mass airflow sensor (cleaning it automatically cleared the code), and another time when an oxygen sensor connector came loose (simply re-securing it fixed the issue). The key is observing the vehicle's behavior when the light comes on—if accompanied by severe engine shaking or power loss, it could indicate a misfire or faulty ignition coil. If everything runs normally with the light on, it's likely just a temperamental sensor. These intermittent faults usually aren't cause for alarm, but do remember to have your mechanic check the historical trouble codes during your next maintenance service.

In plain terms, it's an intermittent fault. My friend Lao Liu's domestic car often acts up like this, especially during cold starts when the warning light tends to flicker randomly. Later, it was discovered that the crankshaft position sensor had incorrect clearance, causing poor contact due to thermal expansion and contraction. The mechanic said modern cars have fault-tolerant mechanisms, just like allowing a few wrong answers in an exam - as long as key parameters don't exceed limits, the system won't lock up. The funniest part was when I once forgot to tighten the fuel cap - the warning light stayed on for three days then went off by itself. But extra caution is needed with turbocharged cars - if the light comes on accompanied by sudden power loss and blue smoke, it could indicate lubrication system failure causing bearing dry friction, requiring immediate inspection.

This temporary warning light has three severity levels. The mildest is fuel system issues, like using gasoline with impurities; moderate cases involve sensor false alarms, such as oxygen sensor poisoning or throttle body contamination; the most troublesome are actuator failures, like early signs of catalytic converter clogging. Last time when I was driving on mountain roads and the light suddenly came on, it turned out to be the intake pressure sensor blocked by insects. If it happens during rainy weather, there's an 80% chance it's due to ignition coil insulation aging causing leakage. Remember two principles: If performance and fuel consumption remain normal after the light goes off, you can continue monitoring; but if the light flashes three times within a week—even if only for minutes each time—you must check the historical data in the ECU. After all, electronic systems are like an old man's memory: they remember some hidden faults but won't tell.


