
The reason for the continuous noise of the booster pump when there is no water flow is a problem with the pressure control system. Since there is no water usage in the pump's outlet direction, the pressure quickly replenishes, causing the booster pump to immediately go into standby mode. Another reason could be a leak in the pump's outlet pipe. Specific reasons: There is a problem with the pressure control system. The pump reaches the controlled pressure as soon as it starts working, causing it to stop. This indicates an issue with the pressure control system. When the pump stops, the pressure drops again. Since there is no water usage in the pump's outlet direction, the pressure quickly replenishes, causing the booster pump to immediately go into standby mode. This repeated cycle results in the phenomenon of intermittent noise. The solution is to replace the one-way check valve with a high-quality one. In fact, most cases of intermittent noise are caused by a faulty check valve. There is a leak in the pump's outlet pipe. A leak in the outlet pipe causing intermittent noise operates on the same principle as a leaky check valve—both are due to the drop in water pressure inside the pump cavity, which causes the pump to restart and replenish pressure. Because the water flow in the outlet direction is minimal, the pressure quickly rises to the set value, causing the booster pump to stop and maintain pressure. Once the pressure is reached, the leak causes the water pressure to drop again, prompting the booster pump to replenish pressure once more. This repeated cycle results in the phenomenon of intermittent noise. Precautions: The motor coil is equipped with a safety protector. If the pump malfunctions or fails to draw water, causing the motor temperature to exceed the specified value, it will automatically cut off the circuit. Once the fault is resolved and the motor temperature drops, it will automatically resume operation. The booster pump motor is a capacitor-run motor, and the rotation direction is preset at the factory. If you need to replace the capacitor or rewire, please follow the arrow direction marked on the pump body for wiring. To ensure safety, always use a three-core safety socket with a grounding wire. If you notice a leak in the pump, stop it immediately and check for internal leaks. If there is a leak at the connection with the motor, replace the mechanical seal. Check whether the power supply is connected. Ensure the power voltage matches the pump's operating voltage.

I've been running an auto repair shop for years, and it's common to hear the supercharger pump making noise when there's no water. Usually, it's due to worn-out water pump bearings causing increased friction, resulting in that eerie humming sound—like something out of a ghost story. Another possibility is air entering the system, low coolant levels, or trapped bubbles disrupting circulation and causing cavitation noise. Damaged or obstructed pump impellers, like debris clogging it, could also be the culprit. A loose or aged belt might fail to drive the pump properly. First, check the coolant level—top it up if it's low or leaking. Then inspect the belt tension. If the noise persists, visit a professional shop immediately to check the bearings or replace the entire pump. Don’t slack on maintenance—regular coolant changes prevent aging and avoid these headaches. Remember, the water pump is critical; neglecting repairs could lead to engine overheating and costly failure—definitely a wallet-buster.

I often tinker with car modifications myself. The supercharger pump makes noise when there's no water, and my car had this issue before—it was quite scary. Most likely, it's due to worn-out water pump impellers or them getting stuck and unable to rotate, causing the noise. Another possibility is insufficient lubrication, where dry bearings grind and produce noise. Cavitation is also a factor; when coolant is low, air mixes into the circulation, creating a rattling sound. I later realized that for older vehicles, the water pump's lifespan may be up, and wear is naturally more severe. During self-inspection, you can simply check the coolant reservoir to ensure the level is normal, then listen to pinpoint the source of the noise. If you're handy, replacing it with a new water pump isn’t expensive. But if you’re unsure, it’s safer to ask a buddy for help or visit a repair shop. I also recommend checking if the modified parts are suitable—poor compatibility in the supercharging system can cause trouble too. To prevent issues, take a quick visual check of the water pump’s condition every time you wash the car.

I have elderly and children at home, and I drive them around every day. That time the supercharger pump kept making noise, which scared me so much that I immediately stopped the car. It's very likely that the water pump was broken or there was a coolant leak in the cooling system, causing poor water flow and resulting in the noise. Simply put, it could be due to aging impellers or bearings, creating loud friction sounds during operation. Air entering the system is also common; if the coolant is insufficient, bubbles can cause unusual noises. Ignoring this issue may lead to engine overheating, which is dangerous. Safety first—if you encounter a similar situation, turn off the engine immediately and check if the coolant temperature warning light on the dashboard is on. I went straight to the 4S shop for inspection, and replacing the part fixed the issue. I recommend not delaying; regularly maintain the cooling system, as it's prone to failures in summer. Keeping your car in good condition can save you a lot of trouble.


