What is the reason for the car's cooling fan to keep running?
5 Answers
The reason for the car's cooling fan to keep running is a faulty temperature sensor or wiring issues. Specific details are as follows: Faulty Temperature Sensor: If the radiator fan keeps running while the engine cooling system operates normally and there is no shortage of coolant, it may indicate a malfunction. The most likely fault point is a constantly open temperature sensor. Wiring Issues: However, if the car has completely cooled down but the fan still does not stop and continues to run, it may indicate a fault in the cooling fan assembly, wiring, or excessively high coolant temperature. It is recommended to have a professional mechanic diagnose the issue at a service center.
I've also encountered situations where the fan keeps running while driving, and there could be several reasons for this. The most common one is an issue with the cooling system. For example, a faulty water temperature sensor might falsely indicate high temperatures, causing the fan to run continuously; a stuck thermostat that won't open prevents coolant from circulating for proper cooling, leading to the fan running non-stop. Additionally, malfunctions in the air conditioning high-pressure switch or relay can force the fan to operate. I've personally experienced a short circuit where damaged wiring caused the fan relay to stay engaged. In fact, prolonged fan operation not only consumes electricity but is also bad for the engine and can easily drain the battery. It's advisable to check the coolant level and radiator cleanliness as soon as possible. If the fan doesn't stop after high-speed driving, it's best to immediately seek a professional auto repair shop for diagnosis.
The continuous running of the cooling fan may be related to several key components. I remember the mechanic said that if the thermostat in the cooling system gets stuck, the coolant can't circulate to dissipate heat, and the fan has to keep running non-stop. Another issue could be a faulty coolant temperature sensor, which keeps sending high-temperature signals even when the temperature is normal. A broken high-pressure switch in the AC system can also cause this—the system thinks the refrigerant pressure is too high and keeps the fan running. Aging connectors in the fan control circuit may lead to short circuits, and stuck relay contacts are also common problems. Oh, and a malfunctioning electric fan module can cause this too, sending erratic commands. These issues shouldn't be ignored, or you risk severe engine overheating and cylinder damage, which would be a huge loss.
A constantly running fan is really annoying. Common causes include sensor malfunctions, such as a faulty coolant temperature probe falsely reporting high temperatures and making the fan work unnecessarily. If the air conditioning high-pressure switch fails, the fan will also keep running to cool. Wiring issues could be another reason—loose connectors or exposed wires causing short circuits can disrupt the electrical system. A stuck relay can also prevent the fan from stopping. Some cars with modified wiring are more prone to this problem. I've experienced the fan still running after turning off the engine, which drains the battery quickly—pulling the fuse is an emergency fix. Regularly clean the radiator fins during car washes, and frequently rinse the radiator during seasons with heavy willow catkins.
When the cooling fan keeps running continuously, focus on checking four key areas: First, cooling system failures, such as a faulty thermostat or a clogged radiator; second, issues with the AC system, like excessive refrigerant or a malfunctioning high-pressure switch; third, electrical circuit problems, including stuck relays or short circuits; and finally, sensor false alarms, like a coolant temperature sensor reporting incorrect readings. I personally encountered a case where the low-speed fan relay was stuck, causing the fan to run non-stop due to the normally open low-speed circuit. During diagnosis, use a diagnostic scanner to read the data stream and check whether the actual temperature and AC pressure are abnormal. Don’t attempt to fix this yourself—water damage to the electrical circuits can make things worse.
