What is the reason for not hearing the starting sound when the car is ignited?
3 Answers
Not hearing the starting sound when the car is ignited is caused by a lack of power in the battery, which requires jump-starting the car or replacing the battery. When the car engine starts, the battery supplies power to the starter and ignition system to make the engine run. When the battery is low on power, it will be difficult to start or even show no response at all when ignited. Battery protection: Usually, it is necessary to reduce the vehicle's power-on time, which refers to the vehicle being powered on without starting. Especially when not starting, avoid using the vehicle's multimedia system. After the vehicle is turned off, all power-consuming functions should be completely shut down. Only in this way can the battery consumption be reduced and the battery's service life be extended. Battery status: Generally, the service life of a battery can last two to three years, and with proper maintenance, it can last four to five years without any issues. The normal voltage of a battery is around 12V. When starting, the voltage will drop to 11V, and when the generator charges the battery, the voltage will reach 14V. If the voltage is only 10V or even less than 10V when starting, it indicates that the battery needs maintenance or replacement.
I've been driving for almost twenty years and have encountered several instances where the car wouldn't make any sound when trying to start. The most common issue is a dead battery, especially in winter. In such cases, the dashboard lights are very dim or don't light up at all. The solution is either to jump-start the car with a friend's vehicle or replace the battery outright. If the battery has power but there's still no sound, the starter might be faulty—it's hidden near the engine. When I was younger, I used to tap it lightly with a wrench, and sometimes that worked. Another common issue is incorrect gear selection; automatic cars won't respond unless they're in P or N. Key problems can also arise—if the anti-theft chip isn't detected, the system will lock. The most overlooked issue is the starter fuse, located in the fuse box under the steering wheel; if it's blown, just replace it. If none of these are the problem, it's likely an internal fault with the ignition switch or starter, and you'll need a professional mechanic. It's always a good idea to keep jumper cables in the glove box—they can be a lifesaver in emergencies.
It's indeed frustrating when the car won't start, but don't panic. First, ensure the vehicle is in a safe location, turn on the hazard lights, and place the warning triangle. The first thing to check is the battery: if the dashboard lights are on, the battery is probably fine; if the dashboard is completely dark, there's a 90% chance the battery is completely dead. Avoid repeatedly turning the key at this point, as it can easily burn out the starter relay. Check if the gear is in the correct position—automatic transmissions should be in P (Park). If these aren't the issues, it might be a problem with the starting circuit: either the starter fuse in the fuse box or the main relay has failed. I always keep a portable jump starter in my car, about the size of a smartphone, which can help in such situations. If none of these methods work, don't hesitate to call for a tow truck—being stranded in the middle of the road is too dangerous. Remember to turn off all electrical devices before shutting off the engine and set the headlights to auto mode to effectively prevent battery drain.
