
The reason for a car's headlights having high beam but no low beam is a damaged bulb. Most bulbs have a certain lifespan, and when they are close to the end of their service life, the light intensity fails to meet standards, and they overheat until the filament burns out. Method for replacing car headlights: Open the car's engine hood. The connection between the headlight base and the power supply is secured with plastic clips, metal clamps, and nuts. When unplugging the power connector, you need to press the small hidden latch on the clip to successfully remove the power supply. Before preparing to replace the new bulb, the owner must choose a product that matches the original car bulb. During replacement, handle it the same way as when removing it, and avoid touching the bulb directly with your hands, as new bulbs contain internal gases. If they come into contact with oil from your hands, it will affect their lifespan. First, secure the bulb correctly in the base, then plug in the power cord, tighten the dust cover, and finally turn on the headlights to test. Precautions for using car lights: During nighttime when streetlights are on, or when driving in conditions of low visibility such as fog, rain, etc., the headlights, position lights, and rear lights should be turned on. When turning, changing lanes, overtaking, making a U-turn, or parking by the roadside, the turn signal should be activated 100 to 50 meters in advance.

I've encountered this issue before. Last time on my old car, the high beams worked fine but the low beams failed. After checking for a long time, I found out the low beam filament in the dual-filament bulb had burned out. The low beam filament in dual-filament bulbs tends to age faster due to frequent use. Corrosion or looseness in the bulb socket can also affect the contact. Another common cause is switch or relay failure, especially in older cars where the combo switch contacts wear out, causing loss of low beam signal. A blown fuse can also specifically affect the low beam circuit—you'll need to locate and replace the corresponding fuse in the fuse box. For DIY troubleshooting, I usually start by replacing the bulb, then check the fuses. If that doesn't work, have an electrician use a multimeter to test circuit continuity and voltage. Never underestimate this issue—driving at night without low beams severely reduces visibility, increasing the risk of hitting obstacles or causing accidents. Regularly cleaning the bulb sockets and replacing bulbs preventatively can save you trouble and ensure safety.

I've only been driving for two years. One night, I noticed that only the high beams were working while the low beams weren't, which made me panic and want to seek help immediately. After checking online, I found that the issue is mostly related to bulb problems, such as the H4 dual-filament type where the low-beam filament tends to break due to frequent use. Rusty lamp sockets or loose plugs are also common causes, preventing electricity from passing through. A blown fuse is another simple reason—there's a dedicated low-beam fuse in the box, and if it burns out, the lights won't work. Other possibilities include a faulty relay or switch issues, like a desoldered internal connection in the combination switch. My first step was to try replacing the bulb myself; if that didn't work, I'd check the fuse. For more complex issues, I'd just drive straight to the repair shop. Safety is crucial—without low beams, it's hard to see pedestrians on dark roads, especially during rainy weather. I've made a note to test my lights regularly, especially before long trips.

From a circuit perspective, when the high beams work but the low beams fail, it usually indicates a fault in the low beam circuit. Possible causes include a burned-out low beam filament in a dual-filament bulb, a blown fuse interrupting the circuit, or poor contact in a relay. Worn switch contacts can also produce similar symptoms. In traditional vehicle models, troubleshooting involves measuring the voltage at the lamp socket to confirm the issue. If the voltage reads zero, trace back to check the fuse and connectors. Be cautious to avoid short circuits, as they can repeatedly blow fuses. Addressing the issue promptly reduces nighttime driving risks.


