
Changan CS55 uses engine oil with the specification: SL grade 5W-30 mineral oil. If you want to change the oil during later maintenance, Shell HX7 5w-40 synthetic oil is a better choice. The viscosity of engine oil changes with temperature, so special attention should be paid to its performance under low and high temperatures. For example, in 5W-30, the first number indicates low-temperature fluidity. 5W means it can withstand temperatures as low as -30°C. The smaller this number, the better the low-temperature fluidity, making cold starts smoother. The latter number represents the kinematic viscosity of the oil at 100°C. The higher the number, the better the oil maintains its viscosity under high temperatures, which can also be understood as better lubrication performance under high-temperature conditions. The method for changing the oil in a Changan CS55 is as follows: Wait for the engine temperature to drop, allowing the oil to flow back into the oil pan; use a wrench to loosen the oil drain plug and place an oil pan underneath to catch the old oil until it stops flowing; start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds to allow the oil in the main oil passage to drain out; use a special wrench to remove the oil filter; apply oil to the seal of the new oil filter and tighten it clockwise by hand; add new oil through the oil filler cap on the engine valve cover, typically filling up to three-quarters of the oil container; start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes, checking for any leaks around the oil drain plug and oil filter, and repair if necessary; after stopping the engine, pull out the dipstick to ensure the oil level is within the standard range.

As a seasoned mechanic who has worked on many domestic cars, I believe the Chang'an CS55 runs best on 5W-30 oil. Especially for its 1.5T Blue Whale engine, only full synthetic oil can handle the high load. The factory manual I've come across several times clearly states that API SN or SP grade certified oil is most suitable—always double-check that the repair shop doesn't use the wrong specification during maintenance. Once, a customer tried to save money with semi-synthetic oil, and after 3,000 kilometers, the engine sounded like a tractor. When we opened it up, the sludge buildup was terrible. In hotter southern regions, 0W-40 might work, but for northern winters, 5W-30's better flow is essential. My advice? Spend the money on reputable brands like Shell Helix Ultra or Castrol Edge during maintenance—it's far cheaper than skimping and ending up with engine repairs.


