What is the method for replacing the coolant in a Magotan?

[VanKing]

The method for replacing the coolant in a Magotan is as follows: 1. Open the engine hood and prop up the engine support rod; 2. Locate the coolant reservoir; 3. Find the coolant drain plug at the bottom of the vehicle, open the plug, and drain the remaining coolant; 4. After draining, check to ensure all coolant has been emptied; 5. Tighten the drain plug and pour new coolant from the inlet. Taking the 2020 Magotan as an example, it is a mid-size car with body dimensions of 4865mm in length, 1832mm in width, 1471mm in height, and a wheelbase of 2871mm. The 2020 Magotan is equipped with a 1.4T turbocharged engine, delivering a maximum horsepower of 150PS, a maximum torque of 250Nm, and a maximum power of 110kW, paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission.

[DelDavid]

I've been thinking about changing the coolant for years, and the key is to follow the steps. First, wait for the engine to cool down completely—working on a hot engine can easily cause burns. Open the engine hood and locate the expansion tank, then unscrew the cap to release pressure. Next, crawl under the car to find the radiator drain valve, use a 12mm wrench to turn it counterclockwise, and place a large basin underneath to catch the old fluid. Important note: old coolant is toxic, so it must be stored in a sealed container and taken to an auto repair shop for proper disposal. After draining, remember to close the valve and check the hoses for cracks while you're at it. When adding new coolant, choose the same color as the original factory fluid—I usually fill it just below the MAX line on the expansion tank. Start the car and let it idle for ten minutes; if the fluid level drops, top it up until the fan kicks in, which means the coolant is circulating properly. Finally, tighten the cap and test-drive the car. Check the fluid level again after two or three days. The whole process takes about half an hour, but don't skip the safety gear—goggles and gloves are a must.

[VonKyle]

There are two major concerns when replacing coolant by yourself: mixing different brands and introducing air. I recommend preparing 4 liters of OEM coolant and parking in a shaded area. Open the hood when the engine is cold, then slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap. When draining, remember to loosen the heater hose clamp for more thorough drainage. After collecting the old fluid in a container, flush the radiator as well. During refilling, it's best to have two people cooperate—one slowly pours the coolant while the other pinches the hose to bleed air. After starting the car, turn the heater to maximum to help purge air bubbles from the cooling system faster. The coolant level will fluctuate initially, so check and top up multiple times until properly filled. Taking a short trip afterward is advisable, as proper air removal can only be confirmed when the engine reaches operating temperature. Remember to change it every two years, as old coolant becomes more acidic and corrodes the radiator.

[MacRemington]

As someone who has worked in a repair shop, the key to replacing coolant lies in the bleeding and refilling sequence. The vehicle must be cold before operation, and the old fluid must be completely drained first. Newer models now come with a bleed screw—locate it and loosen it using an 8mm hex key. When refilling, use a professional funnel and control the flow rate to about one drop per second. After starting the engine, maintain 2000 RPM for two minutes; the upper radiator hose will become warm, at which point you should top up the fluid to the midline. Pay special attention to models with electronic thermostats—connect a diagnostic tool to activate the water pump, or air won’t be fully purged. For Volkswagen models, after replacement, perform a basic setting by holding the AC button for three seconds to allow the water pump to self-bleed. Finally, during a test drive when the coolant temperature reaches 90°C, the cooling fan should operate at both high and low speeds.