
The following is the method for bleeding air from the brake pump: 1. Remove the dust cap from the bleeder valve on the wheel cylinder, prepare a transparent hose, connect one end to the bleeder valve and the other end to a plastic container. 2. One person should press the brake pedal several times inside the vehicle, then firmly hold the pedal down, while another person loosens the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder outside the vehicle. At this point, air will be expelled along with the brake fluid. 3. Repeat the above steps until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid, then top up the brake fluid and tighten the bleeder screw. The following are precautions for bleeding the brake pump: 1. The recommended wheel sequence for bleeding is usually right rear, left rear, right front, and left front. 2. The expelled brake fluid should not be reused as it may have absorbed moisture from prolonged exposure to air, which could affect braking performance.

I have experience with DIY brake bleeding, which basically requires two people to cooperate. First, fill the brake fluid reservoir with new brake fluid, then follow the order of right rear wheel → left rear wheel → right front wheel → left front wheel for bleeding, due to the different lengths of the brake lines. One person sits in the driver's seat to pump the brake pedal, while the other uses a wrench to loosen the bleeder valve near the wheel and shouts 'stop' when fluid spurts out. Repeat the pump-release-tighten sequence for each wheel until no bubbles are seen in the fluid flow. Keep an eye on the reservoir throughout the process—the fluid level must not drop below the minimum mark; I had to top it up twice midway. Finally, remember to tighten the bleeder valves and check if the brake pedal feels firmer. The whole process takes about half an hour, with smooth coordination being the key.

I pay utmost attention to detail control during brake bleeding. First, clean oil stains around the bleeder valve thoroughly to prevent dust from entering the brake system. Using a large syringe with tubing to extract old fluid is more efficient and labor-saving than traditional pedal pumping. Always use Dot4 or higher-grade fluid, and avoid mixing different brands. Apply moderate torque when loosening the valve – too loose causes leaks, too tight risks thread stripping. Press the brake pedal slowly and evenly; rapid pumping may cause valve splatter contaminating the undercarriage. After bleeding, I always test brake responsiveness by measuring stopping distance during test drives. Additionally, if discovering aged or leaking hoses, replace them before bleeding – these are practical tips accumulated through hands-on experience.

I prefer using professional bleeding tools to improve efficiency. The vacuum bleeding device directly clamps onto the bleeder valve to extract air while simultaneously adding new fluid to replace the old. The pressure tank bleeding method connects pressurizing equipment to the master cylinder, maintaining constant pressure while bleeding each wheel thoroughly for the most complete results. Note that equipment connections must be completely sealed, as air leaks can cause re-entry of air. If professional tools are unavailable, using transparent tubing connected to the valve to observe bubble flow is also practical. Regardless of the method used, always perform a final test after bleeding: start the engine and firmly press the brake pedal for 2 minutes to check fluid pressure stability. Many people overlook this step, but it's crucial.


