
Four-cylinder car valve adjustment method is: 1. Rotate cylinder 1 to the compression top dead center aligned with the 0 scale line or align with the timing gear chamber pointer; 2. Adjust the intake and exhaust valves of cylinder 1, the intake valve of cylinder 2, and the exhaust valve of cylinder 3; 3. Rotate 360 degrees, then adjust the exhaust valve of cylinder 2, the intake valve of cylinder 3, and the intake and exhaust valves of cylinder 4. The function of valves is specifically responsible for introducing air into the engine and expelling exhaust gases after combustion. Structurally, they are divided into intake valves and exhaust valves. The intake valve's role is to draw air into the engine to mix with fuel for combustion; the exhaust valve's function is to expel combustion exhaust gases and dissipate heat.

When it comes to adjusting valves on a four-cylinder car, I've actually figured it out through trial and error several times. That time when I was driving my new car, I always felt there was a "clicking" sound from the engine. The mechanic said it was due to excessive valve clearance, so I bought a set of feeler gauges and a wrench to give it a try. First, turn off the engine and let it cool down—otherwise, it'll burn your hands. Then, locate the top dead center of compression—slowly turn the crankshaft pulley with the wrench until the pointer aligns with the mark. Be careful when measuring the valve clearance—insert the feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm, then gently pull to test the gap. If it's too loose, loosen the lock nut and adjust the screw clockwise or counterclockwise with a screwdriver until it feels just right—neither too tight nor too loose—then tighten the nut again. Remember, improper valve clearance adjustment can lead to engine overheating or power loss, affecting fuel consumption. I ended up wasting more money on gas because I didn’t adjust it properly the first time, so patience is key. After finishing the job, the car ran much quieter—saving both worry and money!

As someone who has worked with cars for many years, valve adjustment must be meticulous, especially for four-cylinder engines, with the key being to prevent issues. Valves that are too loose will produce a ticking sound and wear out quickly; if they're too tight, they can stick and cause cylinder scoring. I always insist on performing the operation after the engine has cooled down, rotating to the compression top dead center of the specified cylinder, and checking each one in the order specified by the manual. Use a professional feeler gauge to measure the clearance, record the data, and adjust the valve screws if the deviation is large. First, loosen the locking component, then rotate slightly to tighten or loosen, ensuring the feeler gauge can pass through smoothly. This job may seem simple, but every screw affects efficiency. Proper clearance adjustment ensures smooth intake and exhaust, improving combustion efficiency and providing more stable power on long trips. I recommend regular checks, ideally every 5,000 kilometers, to avoid small issues turning into major repairs.

I started learning to repair my own car halfway through, and adjusting the valves was a bit nerve-wracking at first. After turning off the engine and letting it cool, I opened the valve cover to see the rocker arms and other components. Following the video tutorial step by step: first, rotate the engine to align the timing marks and find the compression position; then use an inexpensive feeler gauge to measure the valve clearance—insert it without forcing it, just let it slide smoothly. If the gap is too large, it will make a tapping noise; if it's too small, the engine will sound muffled. When adjusting, loosen the nut and turn the screw until it feels right, then tighten it. Without experience, I overtightened the screw the first time, making the car feel stiff when driving, but it got much better after readjusting. Remember, the tools are simple, don’t rush, and safety comes first.


