
Automotive brake inspection methods are as follows: 1. Check the connecting mechanism for deformation or looseness. 2. Under no-load conditions, the parking brake device should ensure the vehicle remains stationary for at least 5 minutes on a 20% gradient slope (with a tire-to-road friction coefficient no less than 0.7) in both forward and reverse directions. 3. With the parking brake fully engaged, the vehicle should not be able to start in second gear on level ground when unloaded. 4. Check the travel of the parking brake lever - its working travel should not exceed three-quarters of the full range. 5. Release the parking brake lever, put the transmission in neutral, lift one drive wheel, and the brake drum should be manually rotatable without friction noise.

I've driven for many years and think the most basic brake inspection is daily checks, which are worry-free and safe. Before getting in the car, press the brake pedal a few times to feel if the rebound force and height are normal; if it feels too soft or sinks too quickly, there might be low brake fluid or air in the system. Then check the brake pad thickness: use a ruler to measure—generally, they should be replaced when worn down to 2-3 mm, or you can visually check the wear indicators; don’t wait until they’re completely worn and damage the rotors. Don’t forget the brake fluid reservoir—the level shouldn’t be below the minimum mark, and if the fluid turns black or appears foamy, it’s dirty and needs replacing. When test-driving, listen for any screeching sounds when braking, which could mean the pads are too thin or uneven. Doing these checks regularly can prevent major issues—safety always comes first, especially in rainy conditions when braking distances increase, so extra caution is needed.

I personally enjoy delving into automotive technology, and brake inspection is more fun with some tools. Use a jack to lift the wheel and manually rotate it to check for any sticking or unusual noises, which can help inspect the brake calipers or wheel hub. When testing brake fluid, use a moisture meter—if the water content exceeds 3%, it's time for a replacement, otherwise, the brakes may become slippery. For a more professional approach, use a diagnostic scanner to check for ABS fault codes, and address any warning lights immediately. Road testing is also crucial—find an open area to test brake response, performing an emergency stop at 40 mph to see if the car stops smoothly. Don’t overlook the brake disc surface; check for grooves or cracks, as addressing minor issues early can prevent major repairs. Keep the system dry and rust-free for long-term savings on maintenance.

As a young driver, I always keep brake checks simple, sticking to the basics taught in driving school. Before each start, press the brake pedal to ensure it's firm and rebounds properly; occasionally test the pedal's resistance while driving—don't wait for an emergency to find it spongy. Regularly check brake pad thickness visually—replace them when the wear indicator shows. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir level to ensure it's not too low. Maintain a safe following distance, and be cautious if braking distance increases at high speeds. It's not as complicated as imagined—if unsure, have a mechanic check instrument readings. Small actions can prevent major accidents.


