
Water entering a car radiator has no impact on the vehicle. More relevant information is as follows: 1. Installation location: Car radiators are mostly installed in front of the engine and fan. Their function is to increase the heat dissipation area and accelerate the cooling of the coolant. To quickly remove the heat transmitted from the radiator, a fan is installed behind the radiator to work in conjunction with it. 2. Working principle: The principle is as follows: based on the water temperature and engine load, signals are sent to the computer. The engine computer controls the high and low-speed relays of the fan, and it is also influenced by the air conditioning pressure. The air conditioning computer receives signals from the air conditioning pressure switch, indoor and outdoor temperatures, and other signals, then transmits the air conditioning signal to the engine computer via the bus. Upon receiving the signal to activate, the engine computer controls the compressor and simultaneously controls the fan relay to engage. When the air conditioning pressure increases due to environmental and self-influencing factors, the engine computer receives the signal from the air conditioning computer and controls the high-speed relay of the fan to engage, causing the fan to operate at high speed.

I've been driving trucks for almost twenty years, and radiator water intake is something you really can't take lightly. Adding plain water is most dangerous in the summer when high temperatures can cause immediate boiling over, and scale gradually builds up throughout the cooling system, clogging the radiator fins. Last summer, I encountered one case where the water temperature gauge maxed out—when we opened it up, the hoses were completely filled with yellowish-white scale. Winter is even worse; water freezing at temperatures below minus ten degrees Celsius can burst the radiator, and replacing the whole set costs over two thousand. There's also the corrosion issue—minerals in the water can rust through the water pump. That's why I always recommend long-haul drivers use antifreeze and change it once a year to avoid breaking down on the road. Even when adding coolant yourself, you have to watch the dilution ratio closely—if the concentration isn't right, it can still freeze.

As a mechanic, I've seen too many cars with radiators filled with water, and the problems mainly fall into three categories. Scale blockage is the most common, requiring the entire cooling system to be disassembled and cleaned during repairs. Corrosion is the most damaging—minor cases lead to radiator leaks, while severe cases can cause perforations in the engine's water passages. Poor thermal efficiency is the most overlooked issue, with engine temperatures consistently 5 degrees higher than normal. Last week, I handled a Passat with cooling system failure—the owner had been using water for half a year to save money, and the metal surfaces were completely corroded by electrolysis. Remember, antifreeze contains buffers and ethylene glycol, which not only inhibit corrosion but also have a boiling point 15 degrees higher than water. I recommend checking the freezing point before winter each year. If the radiator leaks, don't just top it off with water—first, inspect the sealing issues for safety.

I maintain both family cars at 4S shops, and there's much to know about cooling systems. Using water instead of coolant primarily affects engine lifespan—high temperatures accelerate metal component fatigue. Short-term use might be fine, but after three months, scale buildup clogs pipes like plaque in blood vessels. My neighbor's SUV last year cost over 3,000 in labor just for scale removal. Then there's water hardness—calcium and magnesium ions in tap water react with antifreeze additives, creating sediment. Once, a mechanic pointed to rust spots on my car's water pump impeller, blaming hard water. Now, I follow the manual, replacing factory coolant every two years and checking the radiator cap seal—aged rubber is another water intrusion risk.


