
The differences between mechanical disc brakes and hydraulic disc brakes are as follows: Difference in working medium: Hydraulic disc brakes use oil as the medium, utilizing the expansion of oil to drive the operation of the brake calipers. The oil used in hydraulic disc brakes is generally lightweight, with fewer impurities, good transparency, and light weight. Structural difference: Hydraulic disc brakes generally consist of three major components: the brake lever, the hose, and the oil cylinder, while mechanical disc brakes use a steel cable to connect the brake lever to drive the caliper system for braking. Difference in working principle: Hydraulic disc brakes adopt a dual-sided floating braking method, where both brake pads move simultaneously, fully contacting both sides of the disc to generate greater friction, enabling rapid braking. Mechanical disc brakes use a steel cable to connect the brake lever to drive the caliper system for braking. Most mechanical disc brakes typically use a single-sided floating caliper braking system, where one side remains stationary while the other side compresses, thereby tightening the caliper gap to create friction against the disc for braking.

I've been riding mountain bikes for ten years and know these two types of brakes inside out. The cable-actuated hydraulic disc brake relies on a cable to pull the hydraulic system inside the caliper, essentially using a cable to activate a small hydraulic device—simple in structure and budget-friendly. The full hydraulic disc brake operates entirely through fluid transmission in the hose; squeezing the lever directly pushes hydraulic fluid to move the pistons. The former feels somewhat similar to mechanical disc brakes, offering a stiffer pull and being prone to slipping in wet conditions, while the latter delivers smooth, consistent power and won’t burn your hands even on long descents. For daily commuting, cable-actuated hydraulics work just fine, but for hardcore off-roading, a full hydraulic system is a must. I remember last time my bike got soaked in the rain, the cable-actuated hydraulics squealed like crazy, while my friend’s full hydraulics remained rock-solid. At least brake pads are interchangeable—both are consumables anyway.

When repairing bikes, many beginners can't tell the difference between these two types of brakes. The most obvious distinction lies in the transmission method: mechanical hydraulic disc brakes (hybrid) have a metal brake cable running from the handlebar to the caliper, with a small hydraulic cylinder hidden inside the caliper to push the brake pads; whereas full hydraulic disc brakes use an entire oil-filled hose system, relying on incompressible brake fluid to transmit pressure. This results in vastly different lever feel—the hybrid version feels like squeezing a stiff spring, while the full hydraulic system is like poking soft clay. Maintenance difficulty also differs dramatically: replacing a brake cable on the hybrid costs just 15 yuan, but fixing an oil leak on full hydraulic requires bleeding and refilling—forget DIY repairs without specialized tools. Surprisingly, mechanical hydraulic discs outperform full hydraulic brakes at -10°C; that snowy ride experience left a deep impression.

Having tested dozens of brake models, the core difference lies in the oil circuit design. Hydraulic disc brakes operate as a sealed hydraulic system where the hose directly connects the lever to the caliper, ensuring zero power loss during force transmission. In contrast, cable-actuated hydraulic discs split the system: the first half relies on cable tension, while only the latter half utilizes hydraulics. It's like a relay race—the handoff inevitably consumes time. The direct consequence is that hydraulic discs offer millimeter-precise braking points, whereas cable-actuated versions always feel like they have half a centimeter of dead travel. The gap widens in extreme conditions; cables experience slight stretching during off-road bumps, while hydraulic fluid remains uncompromising. However, cable-actuated hydraulic discs hold a hidden advantage: compatibility with vintage frame cable routing holes, cutting retrofit costs by half.

Don't just look at the price when choosing brakes, it depends on what terrain you ride. For flat-bar road bikes, cable-actuated hydraulic discs are cost-effective—you can get reliable brands for just over two hundred bucks, with enough stopping power and no rotor rub. But for downhill riding, you must go full hydraulic! Oil systems provide linear feedback even on bumpy trails, something mechanical setups simply can't match. I once upgraded a friend's hardtail mountain bike with hydraulic discs, and finger pressure on steep descents dropped by 40%. Remember to check frame compatibility: hydraulic systems require dedicated hose routing slots, older frames may need adapters. Note that mineral oil thickens in winter, while synthetic fluid avoids this issue. Oh, and both calipers actually look quite similar—don't fall for marketing gimmicks.


